I had a couple of folks ask about the different ways to finish the neck edge of a one piece collar that I referred to in my post about Myra's seersucker blouse. I've noticed that kid's one piece collars tend to be constructed one of two main ways. BMV uses a method that involves clipping the collar at the shoulders, flipping the seam allowance of the undercollar in and hand sewing. Simplicity, Burda and Ottobre tend to use a strip of bias to finish the collar. I've used both methods several times, and I think each has it's pros and cons. Here they are, head to head.
For Myra's seersucker blouse (an Ottobre pattern) the bias finish was used. I've also used this finish here, here, and here.
(ETA for Naptime Seamstress, I did enclose the yoke, using kbenco's awesome tutorial.)
To construct this collar, you start by assembling the collar, just stitching right sides together, trim seam allowances, clipping if needed, turn and press. Topstitch now if you are going to.
New Look 6638. Basically, you baste the collar to the neckline, fold your front facings "backward" along their fold lines (ie, right sides together) over the collar and place the bias tape right side down on the seamline, overlapping the facings at either end. Stitch this big fat thing all together, then trim and grade the neckline seam. Flip the facings around to the wrong side (where they belong) and press the bias strip over the raw seams, turning under the raw edge of the bias. You should have a prettily enclosed seam with no exposed raw edges. Now comes the trickiest part - stitching down the bias. It is really easy to end up with little tucks in the seamline, so stretch the bias as you go and go slowly.
The second common method is shown here in Logan's PJs,made with Butterick 4222. This is Logan's TNT PJ pattern, and I've made it at least 7 times.
To assemble this collar, you have to start by preparing the collar fairly exactly.
Butterick 4222. Since the seam allowances on this collar are both self enclosed and enclosed by the facing, they have to change direction. To make this possible, you have to reinforce and clip BEFORE you assemble the collar. In this case, the collar is notched where it lines up with the shoulder seam. As you recall, this is where the facing ends. Working with the interfaced collar only, you'll reinforce the stitching line at both notches, clip to the stitching line (don't be wimpy either - clip ALL THE WAY to the stitching line) and then press under the seam allowance between the clips. Now you can sew your interfaced, reinforced, clipped and pressed collar to the undercollar, with the undercollar against the garment right side. Trim, grade, turn, press - you know the routine. Now that your collar is assembled, you are ready to attach it.
So, which method is better? I think that depends on you, your project and your goal for the finished product. Each method has it's pros and cons, and I think you'll find uses for each as you sew.