Cake Patterns Tiramisu dress #2

What? The serger's still threaded with black! There will be a lot of black knits comin' atcha.

But really that was just an excuse to make a polka dot Tiramisu. I think everyone should have a polka dot Tiramisu.

The fabric is an ITY knit from FabricMart. It's a little thinner than their usual ITY, which made it a little harder to control. Fortunately, this pattern is a super easy make.

While I love my first Tira and wear it often, I did make a few changes to this one. The biggest change was to the neckline. Instead of binding the neckline with my coverstitch machine, I used the band provided in the pattern. And it's SO MUCH BETTER. No gaping at all. The neckline stays snug and tight against my body no matter what I do.

I didn't want to fuss with pattern matching, so I cut the back and skirt panels on the fold. I love how this fits in back. Perfect right out of the envelope. Love.

I also shortened the midriff panel 1/2 inch and the skirt 3 1/2 inches from my initial make, which still leaves it a bit longer than the pattern as drafted. I like the proportions of this one a little better I think, particularly the midriff area.

Myra freaked out at my "Minnie Mouse" dress when she saw it, so I used the little piece I had left to make her a cap sleeve peasant top. I used Simplicity 2377, which I've used several times for her before. Naturally she styled it with more polka dots...

Today's Tip

Hemming fine gauge knits can be a tricky proposition, particularly if they are slippery, as ITY tends to be. I know many sewing gurus recommend interfacing knit hems, but I've never been happy with that method. For me, it seems to stiffen the hem, even with really lightweight interfacing, as well as reducing stretch. I prefer to use fusible thread.

I love this stuff so much! I really allows you to get a nice crisp, stable hem on unruly fabrics. Here's how.
First, you need a bobbin wound with fusible thread. No special winding method - just use the winder on your machine. Then sew a line of straight stitching at the fold line of your hem. Be sure that the right side of the fabric is facing up.

The black stitching in the above picture is regular sewing thread. The white is the fusible. Now you'll turn and press your hem, using your stitching line as your guide. Use lots of steam to melt the fusible. You may find that a bit of the fusible thread sticks to your iron, so use a press cloth if needed.

Once the entire hem is fused, you can easily pull away the top thread. You needn't be gentle - your hem isn't going anywhere! It may take a tug or two to pull it away from the fusible.

Now take your crisply pressed hem to your machine. Sew it with a stretch twin needle or a coverstitch machine. I don't use any pins for a short hem, but a might put in a few for a longer hem, like a circle skirt. For the Tiramisu, I pinned at the seams.

Once it's stitched, I like to give it a final press from the right side, to be sure that the fusible is really set. It doesn't wash out, so if your hem has rippled slightly, this is your chance to fuse it into place.

Now isn't that lovely? This technique also works well on woven fabrics that don't press well, like polyester suitings. Give it a try! I think you'll like it!

Cake Pattern Tiramisu

I have a new favorite dress.

May I introduce you to Tiramisu by Cake Patterns? You've probably met her before, but this time she's mine. This pattern - it's true love.

I used a ITY knit that was a lucky find at the Hancock Fabrics sale area. It's nice and beefy, but still has a sumptuous drape. They pretty much never have nice knits at Hancock's, so I was thrilled. The gentleman working at the cutting table told me that he had been waiting to see what classy lady (his words, not mine) chose this fabulous fabric.

Of course, this classy lady fabric had to be Tiramisu. Can I gush a little about how great this pattern is? You choose the bodice based on your upper bust measurement, and each size has 4 different variations that you choose based on your full bust. If you don't fall within the ranges that Steph has drafted, she includes lines for making additional bust adjustments right on the tissue. The midriff bands are also personalized based on your bodice and skirt sizes, so if you are two different sizes on top and bottom, that is all taken care of for you as well.

Did I mention it has pockets? I love a dress with pockets. I did naturally make a few very minor alterations. I lengthened the skirt to the largest size length line. Steph has made shortening and lengthening the skirt so easy, since the pattern pieces are nested so that you just extend the line down or up a size or two. So easy! I also widened the sleeve bands and used my coverstitch machine to bind the neckline instead of the band provided in the pattern. For fit, I thought I would need a little extra length over the bust, so I added 1/2 inch before I cut, but I ended up taking it out when I basted the bodice for fit. Steph reminds you to baste for fit a couple of times in the pattern instructions. So helpful!!

The skirt is nicely full. It is perfect for free movement, but not so much fabric that it gets in the way or looks costume-y. I've worn it all day, wrestling and chasing kids, doing chores, running errands and pretty much abusing it in every way I could think, and I was comfortable through it all. But still pretty. I love pretty dresses.