Simplicity 3503

I've made this dress a few times, and I wear it so often, I wore my favorite one completely out! So it needed replacing.

The fabric is an ITY print from fabric,com. It's a nice substantial fabric, and it was nice to sew. The weight is pretty much perfect for a dress, so I'm glad I bought enough for a maxi.

Pocketses, precious.

The only change I made from previous versions was to omit the shoulder tie. I raised the back neckline significantly when I made it the first time, so the tie doesn't actually serve a function, and it was always coming untied.

And with that - let the summer dress season begin!!

Simplicity Maxi Mashup

Summer is all about maxi dresses for me! I love them and I wear them all the time when the weather gets warm. So, when I got this fabric from Heather, I knew immediately what it was going to be.

My favorite maxi dress pattern is Simplicity 3503, which I have made a couple of times. I really do love this pattern, but it is a bit distinctive, and I didn't want a bunch of the same dress in my closet. My favorite thing about this pattern is the skirt. The front gathers are flattering, and the length is perfect. And it has pockets. Easy to add, I know, but it's so convenient when they are already a part of the pattern!

I decided to use the bodice from Simplicity 3678, which I've made before and really like the fit of. The only dislike I have about this pattern is that the midriff band is a bit skinny. I have a long torso, and it looks unbalanced on me. The midriff band from 3503 is perfect though, and it fit onto this bodice really well.

From the back, you can see that the bodice is full coverage, unlike the surplice style of 3503. The tiny cap sleeves are cute, too.

The only real change I made to the bodice (which I also did on my last version) was to finish the neckline with a snug band. I love how this fits the surplice top to my chest. No worries about gaping or wearing a camisole, and I can leave my safety pins at home.

I also ought to mention that I've decided to participate in Me Made May this year. I probably won't post more than just a roundup here on the blog, but you can see my outfits each day on Instagram. I'm hoping this helps boost my flagging mojo. Since I already got a dress made this month, I think it's working!!

Simplicity 3503 border print maxi dress

Thanks for all the well wishes for our trip to Tennessee! We had a lovely time, and I got a chance to take some pictures of a new dress in one of the most picturesque places I've ever been.

So. Much. Green. This is the "backyard" at my parents house. They actually live in North Carolina, but close to the Tennessee border, so we got a chance to visit and admire their new home. Seriously. So beautiful.

This photo was taken where we stayed in Johnson City - the Carnegie Hotel.

But about the dress... This project started with this awesome fabric. It is a border printed ITY jersey that I got at Mood. They still have it here. Isn't it fun?

I wanted to make the most of the large motif as well as the borders, which are printed on both selveges of the fabric. In my three yard length, I had two of the large central "swirl", so I decided to place those on the upper skirt.

The pattern is Simplicity 3503, which I made before here. I wear my first version all the time, so I know it's a winner. Alas, this one is OOP, but Simplicity has kindly released 1804, which has a similar feel and fit.

The only problem with using this pattern for a border printed fabric is that the skirt isn't a rectangle. It has a small amount of shaping. I decided to keep the shaping and sacrifice a tiny bit of the border print at the side seams. You can see it in this picture, but it isn't obvious when the dress is worn.

I also used the border print to highlight the wrap bodice, both front and back, as well as on the back ties for continuity. This means that my bodice pieces are all cut on the bias. This worked fine for my knit, as it has stretch in all directions, but it may not work as well for less stretchy knits. Bias in knit fabrics can be a tricky thing.

Since this fabric is a little more weighty than the Qiana I used for my first version, the skirt is a little longer and swishier. It feels very goddess-like, and I love wearing it.

Simplicity 3503

Last summer, I made a couple of muslins of this pattern, but I was too scared to cut into my fabric, so it sat. But fabric is no good folded up in my sewing room (even if it is 40 year old irreplaceable fabric), so I pulled up my big girl pants and cut.

And I love my new dress!! The pattern is the much beloved Simplicity 3503. It was a best pattern over at PR in 2009, and as of this post, has 89 reviews, most of which are glowingly positive.

The fabric is Qiana, which is a nylon knit produced by DuPont that premiered in 1968. It was produced to replicate silk and is particularly known for it's use in 70s "disco" shirts although it was used in a wide variety of garments. It came from my mother's stash, although she will be quick to tell you that she did not buy this. It was given to her by my aunt who is known for her love of loud colors and prints.

Here is a closer shot of the print. The color looks pretty true to life on my monitor. It really is that bright. I love that little purple frog. He has some green friends scattered about as well. Despite this being a synthetic fiber, I actually found it pretty forgiving to sew. It pressed and eased well and wasn't too slippery to cut.

I did have to make quite a few alterations to get the fit I wanted. I raised the neckline about an inch in front and added some width as an FBA. I moved the shoulder gathers more toward the front of the bodice, so that the fullness was over my bust.

In back, I raised the neckline a lot - about 3 inches. As drafted, you'd need a backless bra to wear it. I wanted this to be an easy summer piece, so I didn't want to fuss with special underwear. With the back neckline raised, the tie becomes purely decorative, as it isn't needed to hold the shoulders up, but I do think it's cute, so I put it on.

The skirt and midriff band are perfect as drafted. It has pockets!! Love that. I had considered reducing or eliminating the front gathers, since they were a bit poufy in my first muslin, but the drape of the Qiana and the weight of the long skirt takes care of the pouf, and I find them very flattering. The skirt length was even perfect. I often find I need to lengthen Simplicity patterns, but this was just right. If you are taller than about 5'7" though, you may want some more length in the skirt.

Laugh all you want, Mom. I'm going to wear this ALL. THE. TIME. Now, anyone know where I can get my hands on some more Qiana?

Simplicity 3503 top

My maxi dress dreams are slowly being realized, beginning with this first draft of the pattern. I had to make a lot of adjustments to the tissue to allow for a full bust as well as raise both front and back neckline. I decided to make up a "wearable muslin" out of some poly knit from the stash.

It turned out pretty cute, and I'm mostly pleased with the tweaks I made. It's also really comfortable and I can nurse easily in it. In fact, I like it enough to enter it in Made by Rae's Spring Top Sewalong. Today is the last day for entries, so get your top into the Flickr group by 8PM!

Here's the back. I raised the neckline about 2 inches. It was LOW! Although this is fine, I think for the final dress I will add another inch or so. I like the little tie at the beck neck, although I raised the back neckline enough that it really isn't necessary to keep the top on my shoulders.

I'm happy with the neckline in front, but I think for the dress I'll give myself a little more space over the bust, as the midriff band creeps up onto my bust just a tiny bit. I probably only need another 1/2 inch or so. I'll also tighten up the neckline just a tiny bit. With wear, it gapes open just a little. I also want to move the shoulder gathers more toward the front where most of my fullness is.

I think the underbust gathers are well positioned, but you can see here how the midriff band is creeping up onto my bustline. I'm also not a fan of the gathers concentrated around the middle of the skirt, but I can't decide if I want to eliminate them altogether or just distribute them more toward the sides.

So, did I miss anything that you would change? I'm a little scared of cutting into my irreplaceable 40+ year old Qiana. Even if Mom does think it's tacky.

Parting Shot:

Myra wanted in on the photo shoot, too. She's learned to pose, just like Mommy!