The dress - overskirt

So, once I got going this binding wasn't all that bad and the overskirt is done!Here is the front. The hem on the underskirt is just pinned up, so it looks like it's sagging, but it won't once the dress is all together.
Of course, all the real action is in the rear. The overskirt is hand pleated into several small tucks to give it that rippling look. I tried several different arrangements and this one gave the best effect. The pleats are not pressed down since we wanted a very soft fold.
At a slight angle you can really see how the overskirt lies.
And here it is up close. I need to press the satin, but otherwise I think it is quite beautiful.

On a related side note, I used Metrosene poly sheen thread to attach the binding, as it blended well with the satin. That is a lovely thread!! It is beautifully silky, but quite strong. The slickness makes particularly great for gathering, as on the veil, without fears of thread breakage. What a great find!

The dress - second fitting

I know you are all wondering how the fitting went...

It was fun! Here is Kali in the skirt and bodice. Obviously, there hasn't been any trimming or finishing done, so this is a rough version of the finished article.

Mom is marking the neckline in this picture. The original pattern for the bodice is actually a corset pattern, so there were no sleeves and a low back and neckline. Mom had the job of raising the necklines and adding sleeves. She did an awesome job!Here is the back. The lacings are so pretty! I'm happy to say that the fit of the skirt was perfect. I was right about that knit waistband on the petticoat, though. It's bulky and had to go. I'll be replacing it with a simple grosgrain ribbon with a hook and eye. The fit of the petticoat was otherwise great.So we fit, then we went back to our machines to refine and get it just right!Dan and Kali had a rough night last night unloading her U-haul, so they took a nap. She was a serious trooper during all the pinning, marking and squeezing.

She's going to be such a beautiful bride!!

The dress - skirt constructed

Whew! The skirt is all put together! It lacks a hem, since I need to mark it with Kali here, and a center back seam, since we are planning to install an invisible zip down the entire back, under the corset lacings, so that will be one of the last steps.

Here it is! (Aside, I'm tickled that it fits on my dressform - Kali is so slim!)

And here it is with the organza overlay. Once I have marked the hem for the skirt, I'll bind the overlay to match the finished skirt length in the satin binding I made.

Look, I got all sparkly! That satin leaves a trail when you pink it!I went over and over in my head what I wanted to do to finish the seams. I thought that french seams and bound seams might be bulky, but this stuff ravels like the devil, so I had to do something! After discussing it with mom, I elected to straight stitch and pink. (Myra is pointing it out for you.) If I'd been smart, I'd have just used my pinking shears to cut it out, but I'm not that smart.

Next up - the petticoat!

The dress - Muslin complete!

The muslin for the skirt is finished and ready for the first fitting.

Seven and a half yards of ugly tiger printed cotton. Wow. It is such a lovely pattern. The seams are shaped beautifully and there are pleats in the back for fullness. I am pretty sure it is going to be too big, but better that than the alternative! It was the devil to lay out, though. I ended up doing it on the living room floor while the kids were napping. With only one exception, each piece has to be laid out in one layer, since they were all too wide to fit any other way. It was a bit time consuming.

I also put together a couple of "swatches" of satin bindings and edge finishes for Kali to look at and choose from. On the left is organza bound in satin bias tape and on the right is tulle. I think the organza is prettier and has a nicer drape, but Kali gets the final say! I also did a lettuce edge to show her, but I don't think it is as elegant as the satin binding.
Mom is going to put together some swatches of pearls stitched to the edge, since Janome and I don't know how to do that, nor do I have any pearl lying around, and she has supplies left over from my wedding dress. I did have to use polyester for the swatches, since that was all I can get in Temple and I didn't want to order silk just for swatches, although the dress will assuredly be made of silk rather than polyester. I HATE making bias binding out of polyester. It doesn't press worth a darn and I end up melting it every time. Gross. Get me some silk!

THE dress - Muslin part 1

Well, the pattern is in hand and I found some truly hideous fabric that will be perfect for my muslin/toile/sloper (whatever you want to call it - going forward, I'll be using "muslin"). I also picked up some satin, organza and tulle. All that is available locally is icky polyester, but I am planning to put together a few swatches of edge finishes to show Kali, so that she can choose the fabric and finish that she wants for the overskirt and veil.

For some reason, I thought it would be a good idea to prewash this fabric. I'm not sure why, since it is unlikely to ever be laundered again. When it came out of the wash, Myra thought it was just perfect for a little nest.

Then I had to iron 8 yards of twisted up cotton. That was fun... Now I have to find a place to lay this baby out. I'm thinking I may go to the church and use the stage. It is the perfect height and I can lay out the entire length. We still have a few details to iron out, but I think we are off to a good start!!

Slightly random...

We had another awesome sewing group meeting last night! I wish I could show you some pictures, but I forgot my camera. We cut out many a skirt and wee dress, which we will start sewing at our next meeting in 2 weeks! Maybe I'll remember my camera for that...

So, what is keeping my sewing room busy? Well, I already told you about my Ren Fest plans, but a new opportunity has cropped up, which those of you who read my Mom and Sister's blogs perhaps already have heard about. My brother is getting married!!

Isn't Kali beautiful?! He totally scored! The wedding is set for the second weekend of October, giving mom and I about a month to make this dress.Mom will be making the bodice, and I will be making the skirt. Whew! That bodice looks like more than I can handle! I've been brainstorming exactly what I want to do for this skirt, and looking at patterns. Mom is WAAY ahead of me and already has the sloper constructed for the bodice, so I need to get going so that we can have our first fitting soon, which will be done here in Temple once Mom gets the sloper to me in the mail. The fact that the dress will be made in two separate cities, 5 hours from each other, for a bride in another city yet another hour away complicates matters just a bit, but we can do it!!

I am thinking that I will get this pattern for the skirt... It has the perfect shape.

and this one for the petticoat. This one looks like a fun corset pattern, too.