Monday, May 9, 2011

Simplicity 3503 top

My maxi dress dreams are slowly being realized, beginning with this first draft of the pattern. I had to make a lot of adjustments to the tissue to allow for a full bust as well as raise both front and back neckline. I decided to make up a "wearable muslin" out of some poly knit from the stash.
It turned out pretty cute, and I'm mostly pleased with the tweaks I made. It's also really comfortable and I can nurse easily in it. In fact, I like it enough to enter it in Made by Rae's Spring Top Sewalong. Today is the last day for entries, so get your top into the Flickr group by 8PM!
Here's the back. I raised the neckline about 2 inches. It was LOW! Although this is fine, I think for the final dress I will add another inch or so. I like the little tie at the beck neck, although I raised the back neckline enough that it really isn't necessary to keep the top on my shoulders.
I'm happy with the neckline in front, but I think for the dress I'll give myself a little more space over the bust, as the midriff band creeps up onto my bust just a tiny bit. I probably only need another 1/2 inch or so. I'll also tighten up the neckline just a tiny bit. With wear, it gapes open just a little. I also want to move the shoulder gathers more toward the front where most of my fullness is.
I think the underbust gathers are well positioned, but you can see here how the midriff band is creeping up onto my bustline. I'm also not a fan of the gathers concentrated around the middle of the skirt, but I can't decide if I want to eliminate them altogether or just distribute them more toward the sides.
So, did I miss anything that you would change? I'm a little scared of cutting into my irreplaceable 40+ year old Qiana. Even if Mom does think it's tacky.
Parting Shot:
Myra wanted in on the photo shoot, too. She's learned to pose, just like Mommy!

Sunday, May 8, 2011

Simplicity 2451

I just can't seem to resist a Sewalong, so I joined in with the Facebook Simplicity Zippered Skirt SAL. I don't really need a new skirt, but they are so fun and relatively effortless to sew. I've had this pattern, which was one of PRs Best of 2010, in my stash for a while. There have been some seriously cute versions of the pleated view on PR and in the blogosphere that while I generally avoid pleats over my abdomen, I decided to try it out.
I wasn't expecting much, but I actually really like it. The yoke is a nice flattering shape and the pleats are a bit lower, so they don't open up and make my belly look big. It is a nice flattering shape with a slight peg.
The pattern is Simplicity 2451. It's a pretty nice pattern with several really cute views. I especially like view B, which I also plan to make soon. It was well drafted and the instructions seemed logical, although they did jump around between views quite a bit, which might be confusing. I didn't really use them after initially scanning them to make sure there wasn't anything weird. There wasn't.
The fabric is a poly lycra suiting from Joanns. I bought it to make a pair of capris, which ended up overfitted (OK, too small!) and have found their way to the Goodwill. I just had a yard or so left, which was more than enough for this little skirt. It's got a slightly brushed surface, so it's very soft and comfortable. You can't tell from the pictures, but it actually has a very fine blue pinstripe every 1/4 inch or so. If you're wondering, the blouse is Vogue 8322.
In back, I used an invisible zip, of course. This one really didn't want to go in properly and it took me several tries to get the yoke seam aligned. I'm not sure why that is, but perhaps the fabric was stretching more than I realized. I did end up with a tiny dimple at the bottom of the zipper, but after all that fussing, I wasn't willing to rip it out (again!) so I'm just going to live with it. You'd have to get pretty close to my butt for it to be noticeable.
And here you can see that I did not make any alterations for fit... But should have! The side seam swings backward at the hem and the waist is tilting forward. Ah, gravity's effect on my butt at work.
But look, pockets! I never used to appreciate pockets, but lately Myra seems to think that I am her personal pack mule, and pockets really come in handy for toting plastic princesses around. Overall, I'm really happy with this skirt and I can definitely see why it was a Best Pattern last year. It went together quickly and easily (except the zipper, but that was operator error!) and it is really cute and comfortable. I have so many skirt patterns, I probably won't make this one again, but I really like it and would definitely recommend it to you!

Friday, May 6, 2011

Simplicity 3752

Aprons are not something that I generally think of sewing or even using, but I'm dreadfully messy in the kitchen and spaghetti sauce stains! I made this one a couple of years ago, but it's so pretty, I never wear it. So, when my sewing group suggested aprons, I got right on it.
This one is fun, and hopefully the bright colors will remind me to wear it and save my clothes. The pattern is Simplicity 3752, view A, which I chose because I like the fitted bodice. A note about fit - The apron isn't quite as bodacious as it appears on my dressform. The outer edges have some movement ease that blouse out a little, making it appear a little more like a Dolly Parton apron. It was nicely drafted and easy to assemble, except for the pointed waistband. As anyone who has tried to sew an inside corner to an outside corner knows, you need to reinforce and clip the inside corner. There was nothing in the instructions about that, despite the fact that you do it 4 different times. I'd call that a fatal error!
The back ties make me happy though. I love that they are the exact length of the apron skirt when tied. The inside finish is really nice as well. The bodice is fully lined and the waistband is faced, so the only exposed seams are the two seams in the skirt section. Overall, I'm pretty happy with this cute little apron and I can see  making it again, if I can only remember to wear it!

Thursday, May 5, 2011

A fit...

I may have mentioned a few things this week that I've been looking forward to. Well, yesterday I had the opportunity to go down to Austin with my Mom and sister to have a pant sloper fit! So fun!!
Sorry for the fuzzy picture. I don't think Rina is used to the fussiness of the iPhone camera. Anyway, this is me in my pants muslin, getting the side seams adjusted. I am now the happy owner of a perfectly fit Vogue pant fitting shell!
Rina and mom both had blouses fit.
Rina gets her muslin fit,
while Mom marks in some darts onto her muslin.
Myra and Duncan came along and both were really well behaved. Whew!
So, if you are in the Austin area, don't miss out on a great opportunity to have a garment or two fit! Sonja's fees are incredibly reasonable and she's very good.

ETA: For Carol, and anyone else interested in this service, you can contact Sonja at the Bernina kiosk at Hancock Fabrics. The number is 512-331-0155.

There may be another fit in the near future, depending on how a certain online sewing machine retailer behaves. Remember that I was expecting my coverstitch machine to arrive? Well, it did, but the case is cracked in such a way that it doesn't align with the throat plate. I was so disappointed! I couldn't even look at it, and boxed it back up without taking a picture. I shot off an email, but 36 hours later, haven't heard back. Do you think it's time for me to pitch that fit yet? I have garments waiting!!

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Monthly Roundup - April 2011

April has been a sewing filled month around here. I think with the move (and the associated packing up of all my sewing - eek!) right around the corner, I've felt an incredible pressure to sew, sew, sew. Maybe I've caught a little spring fever, too. I have so many projects percolating through my brain that I WANT TO SEW, but it's making me scattered and I can't settle on just one to do. I usually practice strict project monogamy and won't start a new project until I've finished the current one, but right now I have 5 different things in various stages of completion. It's making me feel a little scattered.

Anyway, April did turn out to be a reasonably productive month. I made:

1) Vogue 2463 top for me
2) Simplicity 2996 dress for me
3) RTW copy tee for me
4) Simplicity 2526 coat as a dress up dress for Logan
5) Simplicity 2418 top for me
6) Ottobre 06/2008-16 skirt for Myra
7) BWOF 04/2009-118 pants for me
8) McCalls 3668 pants for me
9) RTW copy tee, v neck for me
10) Kwik Sew 3299 tee for Mitch
11) New Look 6641 shorts for Logan

I also made a muslin that was supposed to be wearable, but wasn't of Kwik Sew 2777 for Mitch. The total for the month (counting the "muslin") was 12 garments. I sewed 18 yards, 15.5 of which were from stash! Woo-hoo! I feel like I've done some new things this month. Mitch's shirt muslin had me delving into the intricacies of man-shirt making and I've been trying to get a good pants fit as well. I also tried flatlocking seams on my serger for a running shirt for Mitch. Still a work in progress.  As with the project ADD though, I feel like I'm not really going very deeply into any of these. I  need to pick a topic and see it through, and I just don't particularly feel like that right now.

On the horizon? Who knows??  I have a list of projects I want to tackle, and quite a few I need to finish up. The biggest news is that I ordered my coverstitch machine and it should be here Tuesday!!!
I got the Brother 2340CV from Ken's Sew & Vac. They had a couple of "open stock" models that they were selling at a discount, so I got a great deal and I am so excited!! Several of my projects are just waiting for coverstitching to be finished. I started madly sewing knits after I ordered it, so now I have several tees, tops and shorts in various states of completion, just awaiting the coverstitch.

I'm also participating in the Simplicity zippered skirt SAL on Facebook.
I've been wanting to sew this pattern since it came out, so now I have the motivation. I'm planning (and have already cut out) view C, which is the teal tulip skirt, in the grey pinstripe suiting and view B, on the model, in the linen.

Of course, I have not forgotten my maxi dress plans!
My sister pointed out that several colors in the print are not the best for my complexion, so I got some pink lining, which since the Qiana is semi-sheer, gives the fabric a rosy glow and I think, between that and the cut of the bodice will take care of that issue.

Once I have my pants sloper made, I have at least 2 more pair of pants in the queue. I've been longing for a pair of white trouser jeans. I'm planning to use McCalls 5592, now OOP, which I used to make my first pair of jeans. It has a nice shape and fits me reasonably well right out of the package. After I have my sloper, I'll make it even better! I am also planning to make my 3rd pair of Groovy Bellbottoms from BWOF 11/2009-125, which kbenco made recently for her daughters. So cute! Probably age inappropriate for me, but I've decided not to care. After all, I was barely born when bell bottoms were last in fashion, so I didn't get to wear them then!

There are several more things that I want to sew, but I'm not sure I'll even get all this done before it's time to pack up the machines and head for the Great Salt Lake. Hopefully I can find some focus for May.