Friday, September 24, 2010

Vogue 8322 : SISC #1

The first installment in my Self-Imposed Sewing Club (SISC) is finished!  I have to say, that I found it hugely frustrating to be sewing (and fitting!!!) something that I can't actually wear.  Huge props to Amanda for sewing all of those "regular sized" clothes while she was pregnant!
Anyway, the pattern for this is Vogue 8322.  It's an oldie, but is still in print.  This is actually one of the first Vogues that I purchased when I started sewing again.  Then I learned about FBAs and realized that my size range totally changed...  And I had the wrong size of this pattern.  The next Vogue sale I trotted over to Hancock to get this pattern in the correct size, but it wasn't in stock.  For 3 months...  I finally ordered it from BMV, but then it sat.  I'm not even sure why, as I really love it.  Shoulder princess seams are my favorite, the neckline is interesting, the hemline has nice shaping.  Anyway, this was one of the first patterns I thought of when I was considering what to sew for my self-imposed sewing.  Now if only I could wear it.
Here is the back.  The fit looks off here, but that is just the result of the stretching out of my dressform, which is worst around the neck and shoulders, since it spends most of it's time hanging by that hanger in my sewing closet.
Anyway, the fabric I had initially selected for this top was a fun houndstooth charmeuse, but when I got ready to cut it out, I realized that I only had a yard and a half, and the pattern calls for 2.  Normally, I'd have tried to squeeze it in, but the print repeat was pretty wide, so I wouldn't have had enough fabric to match it.  That would have made me crazy, so I swapped it out for this pretty pink stretch poplin.  It's a nice basic and will go with practically everything in my closet.
The pattern is a good one.  Rather than floppy facings in front, the facing actually is identical to the front princess panel, which you slipstitch down to the princess seam after seaming the front and hemline.  It's a very nice finish inside and no floppy facings.  There were only a few things I disliked about the pattern.  One was the cuffs.
I know this is a "very easy" pattern, but come on Vogue!!  The cuff slit is just a section of the underarm seam that you narrowly hem, so the cuff itself faces toward the body instead of toward the back.  The other major issue I had was the sleeve cap.  Seriously ridiculous amount of ease, which I neglected to measure prior to cutting, and had to shave off while sewing.  I cut off 3/4 of an inch at the shoulder seam marking tapering out to nothing at the notches.  That is a lot of ease!!
The other issue I had with this blouse was fitting.  I know my dressform is wonky, so I started out attempting to tissue fit the upper bodice on me.  That was totally crazy and I ended up relying on my dressform.  My first FBA was completely strange, so I went back to basics and did the FBA step by step with my FFRP at my side.  Despite all that, I still ended up pinching out about an inch above the bust that tapered out to nothing at the armhole notch.  Weirdest thing ever, but the end result is nice so I'll take it.
Fitting this was a bit of a frustrating process, so I think I'll be a bit selective with my next SISC project, and select from those that require little fitting, or that I can wear now.  There are a couple that fit into that category!  But before that I have GOT to get sewing for Halloween.  How is it already halfway through September???


  1. I can't even imagine trying to sew garments for your "normal" body while pregnant - I think it'd just make my head hurt too much. Heh. ;) That being said, I think you did a beautiful job on this top - love the color!

  2. I see Amanda's posts and shake my head at how she can create things she can't wear (right away!) Good motivation to lose that post-pregnancy weight though! I love your blouse - hats off - that's quite the accomplishment. I also really like your duct tape dressform - I've always wanted to do one!

  3. What a pretty blouse. All the details - subtle though they are - are very nice.

  4. You'll have a beautiful shirt to welcome your non-pregnant body back! How good will that be?

  5. I love a shoulder princess blouse too, and I like the collared-but-non-traditional neckline. Thanks for the tip on the sleevecap ease, that drives me crazy!

  6. Great top! Props to you for sewing post baby clothes! I've never had a baby but I imagine that it's difficult.