Friday, April 29, 2011

1974 McCalls 3668

More pants!
This is McCalls 3668, published in 1974, worn with a top I refashioned from a housedress of my grandmother's. It's from the same era.
Here is the pattern envelope. I love the note on the side "A Carefree Pattern". They are a very simple pair of pants. Straight legs, no pockets, topstitching or even fly. The zipper is in the side seam and the waist is faced with petersham. The shaping is with darts - one pair in front and 2 in back. The waist sits at my natural waist, which is high.
From the front, I'm not in love with the way the darts make my belly appear. I admit that it is not as flat as once it was, but I don't think these are doing me any favors. I'm generally not a fan of front darts, and these are just confirming that impression.
From the side, I'm happy with the way they hang. I used an invisible zipper, and I'm pleased with how it came out. I have had trouble with ripply side zips in the past, but this one lies nicely. I was amused with the pattern instructions for the zip. They said, "Insert zipper in side seam per package instructions." No hand holding there!
From the back, the double darts give it a very nice shape here. I didn't even have to take in the center back seam as I so often do. The crotch curve adjustment copied from my last pair of pants seems to have worked as the diagonal wrinkles are gone. I could probably use a smidge more ease in the seat, but they are pretty good.
Here is the waistline, which I mentioned above was faced with petersham. I've never done this before and so I just followed the pattern instructions. I applied it to the right side by edgestitching it along the seam line and then turning it under, steaming it into shape and topstitching it down. It is very comfortable - the petersham has some give, but not too much - and fairly easy to do.
Overall,  think these will be a nice addition to my wardrobe. Sewing pants always makes me want new tops though, so I have the Jalie Scarf collar top in the works and a Burda that I got at the last pattern sale cut out. I'm also determined to squeeze in that frog print maxi dress. And another pair of bellbottoms... and some white trouser jeans... and a couple of skirts for the Simplicity SAL on Facebook... and... and...
Do you ever feel like there is more sewing you want to do than hours in the day??

Before I close, I must send a shout out to my sewing group! We meet every Thursday evening and it is SO FUN! Right now we are copying out favorite RTW modesty tee shirts. Today as we stitched up side seams and started to have actual tee shirts, we all got pretty excited. There was jumping and possibly squealing and Rebecca exclaimed, "Who needs to go drinking? We can just get together and sew!" And so, my dear readers, go get your sew on!


  1. Pants!!!! Great job on them. I want to learn . . . Scarf collar top is on the list, too.
    And, sewing group . . . . I miss it.

  2. I see what you are saying about the front darts, but if you hadn't pointed it out I wouldn't have noticed. Very nice piece.

  3. Great pants - I've read about petersham in my Betzina book - sounded fascinating. Wish I had a sewing group; maybe I'll google - I don't know how to start finding one.

  4. Another great fit! I'm not surprised this new pair has contributed to your "sew up a storm" mentality.
    I really like the clean waist finish - I've never done it with ribbon, just a facing. Most recently, I did it with a fly front and that was trickly and ended up a little ripply and bulky.