New Look 6082

My first item in the Wardrobe Basics SAL is black slim pants. The show that this SAL is based on called them ponte pants, and that sounded great to me.

The pattern is New Look 6082, which is a wardrobe pattern with several nice pieces. I made view D, which are ankle length (although there is no way to tell that from the drawing) slim pants with vents at the outer hem.

I was going for an Audrey sort of vibe. Except that I don't wear flats.

The fabric is a black ponte knit from Fabric Mart. I really have been impressed with the quality of Fabric Mart's ponte knit, particularly for the price. So often inexpensive ponte is plasticy and reminds me of my cheerleading costume from Junior High. This knit is soft and drapey, without the plastic feeling. I really like it.

Since the pattern envelope doesn't show the pants on a person, I was sort of at a loss as far as what to expect with regard to fit. I compared the pattern to my Vogue 8330 skinny jeans pattern. These were significantly wider, but I decided I could always lop off some width as I sewed them. I transferred the crotch alterations I generally make and went ahead and cut without a muslin. I basted them together to get a sense of the fit, and the legs were quite large. I cut off a total of 1 3/4 inches per leg below the hip to give them a slim shape. I also nipped in 1 1/2 inch in the back waist. The fit in the rear isn't perfect, but it is OK and comfortable.

Since the pattern is drafted for a woven, and I was using a knit, I was on the fence about the zipper, I did install an invisible zipper, but because I was being lazy, I didn't interface the zip area and it bubbled terribly at the end. Not a good look. Since I wasn't sure how I felt about that zipper from the beginning, I didn't firmly interface the yoke. Instead, I used a tricot interfacing and added a strip of wide elastic cut to the length of my waist which I attached to the facing at the waistline to stabilize it there. This way, when I took the zipper out, I could still pull the pants on since the waistline was able to stretch.

Although the pattern claims that these pants are supposed to fall 1 inch below the natural waistline, they hit right at my belly button, which is about 1/2 inch inch below my waist. I am very high waisted, so these pants may fall a bit higher on others.

When I first put these on, Mitch wasn't thrilled with them. He tried for subtle with. "Well, they're different than what you usually wear." I like them though and although he's right that my usual vibe is fit and flare or very fitted, I think these fill a wardrobe niche that I didn't have anything for before, and they will liberate a few orphans that I have collected.