Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Colette Sorbetto muslin

When Colette Patterns first released this pattern (You can download it for FREE here on their site.), I thought it was cute, but between the lack of sleeves and the  somewhat boxy shape, I really didn't think it would work for me. But then it started appearing on women of every size, shape and age all over blogland. I decided that I would give it a shot.
I'm so glad I didn't use nice fabric. It's a tent. Since it is designed to go over the head without closures, shaping at the waist is minimal, and it drapes straight down from my bust, which is not my most flattering look.
It isn't altogether horrible from the side. The bust dart does provide some nice shaping in that area, although mine is a little too high at the side seam and a lot too long.
The blue tape indicates the tip of the dart. It actually points in the right direction, but it ends right at the bust point. I prefer a dart at least an inch, but as much as 2 inches away, otherwise it just looks odd.

I actually think it might be cute belted or tucked in, so I'm not giving up on it forever, but I'm going to shelve it for a while and let it cook in my brain a bit before I try again. In the meantime, I thought I'd share with you all the alterations I made.
This is the front pattern piece. I started out with a size 8, which corresponds to my waist and hip, but is 2 inches smaller than I am in the bust. I did a 2 inch FBA using the Y-dart technique (found on page 146 of the second edition of FFRP) to minimize the width of the bust dart. As you can hopefully see in the picture, you split the upper leg of the alteration in half, so rather than adding all the extra to the armhole area, you add some into the shoulder as well. Since I have rather narrow shoulders in front, this method isn't always ideal for me, but it works when the sleeve is cut on. I also added 4 inches to the length, as I like my tops long and this one barely comes past the high hip as drafted.
From the back it is a little easier to see how I added the sleeve. I just extended the shoulder line far enough to cover my shoulders, then added the 5/8 SA/HA and connected the end of the line with the underarm on the pattern. Easy peasy.


Sandi said...

I don't think this pattern is great for bigger busts. I'm glad you made though...not happening here!

Jane M said...

I to like the idea of this top more than the actual result that would appear on my body. Bravo to you for doing the alterations to even try it. You are far more patient than I am:-)

Big in Japan said...

I did a muslin of this too. I thought the darts were extremely long and for those fuller of bust, it does seem to need some additional shaping at the waist. I don't think I'll be making a wearable version because, ultimately, I don't think I like that pleat on me. Lots of great versions out there though!

kbenco said...

There are some lovely versions of this about, but I had the same thoughts as you when I saw the pattern - not for me. I think it would need a lot of darts before it looks right on anyone with a fuller bust and a small waist. You will be re-drafting the whole pattern! Maybe a belt could save it.

Summer Flies said...

I'm glad you say this as I look at it and think too boxy and shapeless. I think it's the fabric that makes the versions look great. I thought I was the only one. Even though I can't wear yellow; I really like your fabric.

Anonymous said...

I've had the same reservations about this pattern--actually about all of Colette makes me sad because I think that Sarai is really talented and the patterns are beautiful, but I'm just not wild about any of the bust treatments on their patterns.

That being said, the sleeve adds a lot to this pattern. It could be cute with a belt too.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I have stayed away from this pattern because of its shapelessness as well. I just don't think it will work for me. But it is hard to resist! Love your little cut-on sleeve.