Friday, May 29, 2015

Burda June 2015 dress

In January I decided I had missed my Burda magazine long enough, and decided to renew my subscription after a 3 year lapse. After 6 months I finally found something that I HAD to sew.
In fact, I was flipping through the magazine when it arrived, and Mitch looked over my shoulder and said, "That dress is so you!" so I had to make it.
He's right, of course. It is very me! Comfy knit, with cute details and a swingy skirt is definitely my style all summer long.
The pattern is from the current (June 2015) issue of Burda Magazine. It is number 120, which includes both a top and dress version of the style and is made up in both knit and woven fabrics. Very versatile!
The pattern itself is really interesting, It only has one main pattern piece for the dress! Which made it manageable to trace on the crazy pattern sheets. There are no shoulder seams, only side seams and a center back seam.
There is minimal shaping at the side seams, so most of the shape of the dress comes from the front tie. There is a casing which is stitched onto the front of the dress just under the bust. A self fabric tie is called for by the pattern, but I used wide grosgrain ribbon instead.
In back, the neckline forms a pretty V that echos the front. I raised it about an inch, but as drafted it is actually pretty modest. I did take in the center back seam as there was no shaping back there and it looked very sack-like without some curves.
I also elected to bind the neckline and armholes with my coverstitch, rather than do a bias tape finish as the pattern called for. I like the bright white contrast there, and with my binder on the coverstitch machine it was super easy. Since there isn't a seam at center front, I darted the binding there to form the V. One thing I would change for the future would be to raise the armhole. It gapes open a bit too low, as you can see from this pic.
I also added pockets, of course, I regretted it at first, since they gaped a bit and made my hips look huge, but once I took in the center back, that tamed the pockets and they lie nicely now. I cannot wear a dress without pockets so I'm glad they worked out!
While there are a few minor things I would change should I make this again, I am really quite pleased with my first Burda make in several years. Maybe I'll tackle that pattern sheet again! Once I've recovered from this time...

6 comments:

  1. It is amazing how you can convince such a boxy design to look shapely. It looks lovely on you.

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  2. Gorgeous! The binding and the white tie are the perfect accents.

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  3. It turned out great Katie! That sounds like a really interesting design. I traced off an apron pattern from one of my mother-in-law's aprons that's put together similarly...it connects at the shoulder seams only. I love innovative designs like that, but then, Burdastyle is pretty good about churning out good designs. I've gotten used to the pattern sheets, though a jacket does me in for about a year! ;)

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  4. What a gorgeous dress! I have taken a break from my Burda subscription too. It seems it is a hit or miss for me with every magazine, but they are still fun to look at. I really like this dress and the modifications you made to it definitely sound like they enhanced the design. I will have to see if I can get this issue now!

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  5. Love the dress, but WHERE did you get the hat? I sew love it- you are rocking it.

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  6. :D Thanks! I got it at Target. My daughter actually made me buy it. She has good taste.

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