Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Jalie 3461 - the Eleonore pull on pant

I haven't been buying many new patterns lately. My pattern stash is immense and it is starting to feel like I'm never going to make even half of them so getting new patterns seems a bit silly, but when Jalie announced that they were releasing a pull on pant for stretch wovens, I pre-ordered it immediately.
Then I shoved everything I should be making to the back of the queue and got up early a few mornings to sew them up. Sewing in the summer is challenging for me, but I really wanted these pants. So, here we are - Jalie 3461, the Eleonore pull on pant!
I did make a few changes right out of the gate. First off, Jalie calls these a low rise pant. 10 years and 3 kids ago I wore low rise pants, but that ship has sailed. I pulled out my trusty Jalie jeans pattern and compared the two. Based on that comparison, I raised the rise 2 inches. Since the waistband of the pull on pant pattern is wider than the jeans pattern, the end result is a pretty high waist, so keep that in mind if you are making rise alterations. The waistband is wide!
For the crotch curve, I just copied the alterations I used on the Jalie jeans. It worked well and I'm happy with the fit there. As for the legs, the pants are meant to be semi fitted, so since I wanted a more skinny type pant, I slimmed the legs down two sizes below the hip, then had to remove an additional 3 inches from the ankle, tapering up to the fullest part of the calf.
They're super comfortable and so quick to sew up! I'll definitely be making them again, and again and again!
Once final caution for the curvy girl, the pattern instructs you to use elastic to stabilize the waistband. The length of elastic you use is the same as the length of the waistband pattern piece, but if you have a small waist and fuller hips and backside, you will want your waistband to be snug in the back so that the pants pull in to the back waist. In order to do this myself, I simply measured my elastic on my own waist, then used the full length of the front waistband pattern piece and the remainder for the back piece. That meant that the elastic was significantly shorter in the back and had to be stretched to fit. As a result, my pants fit snugly in the back and don't slide down and gape.

Friday, June 26, 2015

Rescuing an orphan

My Rambo skirt is one of my favorite makes. It's fun. It fits well. It's easy to wear. It should be a favorite in my closet, but unfortunately it isn't. The body suit I made to wear with it is lovely and comfortable, but suffers from requiring specialty underwear, due to the low back. The color scheme of the skirt is unusual in my wardrobe, and I just didn't have another top that looks good with the skirt.
Fortunately, I did have a remnant of the ITY I used to make the original bodysuit. It was a smallish piece - long but skinny. And I didn't have enough for mess ups.
I decided to use Ottobre 02/2009-5, which I have made before here. I knew this pattern was a winner, and even if it wasn't perfect with the skirt, I would still wear it a lot.
Fortunately, it turned out to work well with the skirt, so it's a win all around!
I'm particularly pleased with the sleeve this time! The rayon jersey I used to make this top last time was quite limp, so while the sleeves are attractive, they don't really flutter. In this ITY, the sleeves are much more full and graceful. It's a winner!

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Comino Cap with a Sewcialist twist

Well, May was awesome productivity-wise and my mojo returned to me, but then school let out for the summer. Finding time to sew has been challenging, but I managed to distract Myra with my Barbies long enough to crank out this Comino Cap top.
I love this pattern. It's a super quick sew, fit's well and looks great on. Perfect for a precious fabric that I only had a yard of.
Here's a back view, for a better look at the print, which is Sew in Love by Lillestoff. It is vintage sewing machines!!! Surrounding the machine motifs are tiny curliques, topped with scissors and surrounded by red hearts. I love this fabric. As of this moment, there is still some in stock here at Kitschy Coo's fabric shop.
Since the print features little red hearts throughout, I decided to match them with red neck and sleeve bands. To make the red pop a bit more, I made my bands 1/8 wider than the pattern calls for, simply by sewing the neckline and sleeves at 1/4 inch SA rather than 3/8. Wider bands say more casual to me, and I wanted this to be a wear every day sort of top. Because SEWING MACHINES! I will wear it every day...
Taking pics in the summer is tricky too. I have helpers.... Good thing they are cute!