Cake Patterns Tiramisu dress #2

What? The serger's still threaded with black! There will be a lot of black knits comin' atcha.

But really that was just an excuse to make a polka dot Tiramisu. I think everyone should have a polka dot Tiramisu.

The fabric is an ITY knit from FabricMart. It's a little thinner than their usual ITY, which made it a little harder to control. Fortunately, this pattern is a super easy make.

While I love my first Tira and wear it often, I did make a few changes to this one. The biggest change was to the neckline. Instead of binding the neckline with my coverstitch machine, I used the band provided in the pattern. And it's SO MUCH BETTER. No gaping at all. The neckline stays snug and tight against my body no matter what I do.

I didn't want to fuss with pattern matching, so I cut the back and skirt panels on the fold. I love how this fits in back. Perfect right out of the envelope. Love.

I also shortened the midriff panel 1/2 inch and the skirt 3 1/2 inches from my initial make, which still leaves it a bit longer than the pattern as drafted. I like the proportions of this one a little better I think, particularly the midriff area.

Myra freaked out at my "Minnie Mouse" dress when she saw it, so I used the little piece I had left to make her a cap sleeve peasant top. I used Simplicity 2377, which I've used several times for her before. Naturally she styled it with more polka dots...

Today's Tip

Hemming fine gauge knits can be a tricky proposition, particularly if they are slippery, as ITY tends to be. I know many sewing gurus recommend interfacing knit hems, but I've never been happy with that method. For me, it seems to stiffen the hem, even with really lightweight interfacing, as well as reducing stretch. I prefer to use fusible thread.

I love this stuff so much! I really allows you to get a nice crisp, stable hem on unruly fabrics. Here's how.
First, you need a bobbin wound with fusible thread. No special winding method - just use the winder on your machine. Then sew a line of straight stitching at the fold line of your hem. Be sure that the right side of the fabric is facing up.

The black stitching in the above picture is regular sewing thread. The white is the fusible. Now you'll turn and press your hem, using your stitching line as your guide. Use lots of steam to melt the fusible. You may find that a bit of the fusible thread sticks to your iron, so use a press cloth if needed.

Once the entire hem is fused, you can easily pull away the top thread. You needn't be gentle - your hem isn't going anywhere! It may take a tug or two to pull it away from the fusible.

Now take your crisply pressed hem to your machine. Sew it with a stretch twin needle or a coverstitch machine. I don't use any pins for a short hem, but a might put in a few for a longer hem, like a circle skirt. For the Tiramisu, I pinned at the seams.

Once it's stitched, I like to give it a final press from the right side, to be sure that the fusible is really set. It doesn't wash out, so if your hem has rippled slightly, this is your chance to fuse it into place.

Now isn't that lovely? This technique also works well on woven fabrics that don't press well, like polyester suitings. Give it a try! I think you'll like it!

SwimAlong 2013: SCUBA Chic

Swimwear as daywear? The Fall 2013 runways shows were awash (haha) with swimwear and SCUBA inspired pieces. SCUBA Chic is totally a thing, and I want to show it to you.

Image from lyst.com

I think this colorblocked suit from Michael Kors hits the trend for me. It's sold out everywhere, but that's why we sew...

Image from lyst.com

The trend is inspired by SCUBA gear, so you'll see sporty elements like chunky plastic zippers and heavyweight, matte fabrics. Seams are in curvy, body-con shapes that accentuate a feminine figure.

Image from bardotstylefile.com

Colorblocking is huge, and fabrics are generally in vibrant, saturated solid colors paired with black. The rare print is graphic with strong geometric shapes. You won't see frills or florals here.

Ready to make your own SCUBA inspired piece?

Why not start with Jalie 3135? This pattern is asking to be colorblocked, and the zipper is already there for you!

Don't fancy a zip? Vintage Kwik Sew 810 has the SCUBA style high neckline and is already princess seamed, so the colorblocking is easy! I found it on Etsy here.

Jalie 3134 is a modern option with front stripe panels and a sporty racerback.

To really get an accurate SCUBA look, you need a heavier, matte fabric that will look like the neoprene used in typical SCUBA gear.

My preference is a Milliskin spandex with a matte finish. Spandex World has an assortment of colors, including this on trend neon green!

Accessorize with zippers and belting! 

To get the look you want, you'll need a #5 molded plastic zipper. These can be tricky to source in colors, but black is readily available.

For your belt, start with flat nylon webbing.  Sewn on a plastic snap buckle and you are ready to hit the surf!

Now if only I could find these shoes in my size...

Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono Tee

I finished the sewing on my pink corduroy jeans, but I'm waiting for some particularly fabulous rivets to arrive so that I can add the final touches. In the meantime, I decided to whip out a few quick knit projects, since the Stashbusting Challenge this month is to sew up some knits.

I started with this fabric that was left over from this dress. It was a small piece, maybe a yard in length, but weirdly shaped and most of the cool border print was gone. I needed a pattern that used a minimum of fabric, and had few pieces so I wouldn't have to chop up the print.

The Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono tee is perfect. And free, which possibly makes it even perfect-er.

I graded between sizes at the bust in front as a cheater FBA and cut a smaller size through the front shoulder. With a pattern this simple, alterations come down to how much space you have at the side seam, so grading between sizes is the way to go, and also really easy.

Since I only had a small piece of the floral border, the back is solid black. You can appreciate the fit a little better back here. It's pretty shapely for a garment with only three pieces.

One thing I really like about this pattern is the sleeve. It is a really nice length for me, and it doesn't gape at the lower armhole. So many of these cut on kimono style sleeves are cut wide enough to expose undergarments, which I dislike intensely. This one is perfectly snug, but still very comfortable.

I wore my new tee after church on Mother's Day. I had worn the "matching" dress to church that morning and my kids were so confused that I suddenly had my skirt on as a shirt! I paired it with my Vogue 1059 wide leg jeans. I was very pleased with the top all day long. It's very easy to wear.