Saturday, March 17, 2012

Jalie 2787

After I finished my white blouse and the marathon of knit tops, I was ready to bite into a little more of a challenge and make a jacket. I started tracing Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Carrie-d Away Jacket (now OOP). Then I got sick, and didn't even go into my sewing room for the better part of a week. I came back and couldn't face the jacket, so I whipped up an old favorite that I have been meaning to remake for a couple of years.
The pattern is Jalie 2787, the Criss-Cross top. I made it once before when Myra was a wee one, and still wear it often.
The fabric I used this time is a cotton-lycra jersey from the remnant bin at Hancock's. It was a bit curly, but has really nice recovery, which is pretty essential for this top if you intend to use the nursing option. Which I do.
Here's how it works. This is absolutely hands down my favorite nursing top. In fact, after nursing all three of my babies for a collective 4 1/2 years (and still going!) this is the only nursing top that is still in my closet. I love it so much that I am willing to overlook the fitting issues that I (and many of the reviewers on PR) have had with the crossover panels. But I'm going to tell you all about them.
The major issue is the underbust area of the upper crisscross panel. Despite the fact that the top fits snugly with negative ease across the bust, the underbust area gapes open. My initial thought was to shorten the panel below the fullest part of the bust, in order to tighten up the area underneath.
You can see though, that the side seam already pulls forward significantly under the bust. This is mostly due to the elastic that holds the lower front panel up, but shortening the "legs" of the crisscross panels would only make it worse.
But to all that I say, I don't care. I love this top. It is comfortable, cute and convenient for nursing. Gape away. I will still be wearing it.

But before I made this top, I did finish tracing the HP jacket. I even stitched together the tracing for a tissue fit.
And well, I don't know. The style is cool and interesting. I thought the construction would be super complicated, but it really isn't (although the pattern does have 21 pieces, including lining and interlining - yikes!). I'm just not sure how well all those gathers will behave in the ponte knit I have in mind. Perhaps I need to seek out a sleeker pattern? Maybe I'll muslin it in an ugly sweater knit I have and see how it behaves.

16 comments:

  1. Wonderful top!!
    I can see why you like that pattern for nursing so much.

    Great dot-color, you'll wear that a lot!

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  2. I've always wondered about that top. I have a New Look pattern with a similar look that I never got around to reviewing because it has similar issues. I might pick up the Jalie whenever my next pregnancy happens because it looks like an awesome maternity pattern.

    That jacket has some really cool lines! Since you're using ponte would you eliminate the lining? jackets make me crazy too with all of the pieces, and yet, I'm pretty sure I have the next one planned before the current one is finished. I hope you're feeling better.

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    1. It is a FABULOUS maternity top. You don't even have to alter it - just make it with a fabric with enough stretch. Pretty much any lycra containing knit will probably work. I wore mine all through my pregnancy with Duncan and it was great from day one to delivery. And I still wear it.

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  3. I love the dots! Fantastic top and seemingly so great for nursing! I wouldn't worry about the gap issues either. It looks wonderful on you!

    I've gotta make something in polka dots!

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  4. Wow, I wish I had known about this pattern when I was BF. I had no idea it was a nursing top - but it works so much better than the tops I made for myself when I had a little baby to feed.

    Love the polka dot fabric too.

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  5. Love the top, and what an interesting-looking jacket!

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  6. What about a bit of elastic in the hem (like a casing)? Maybe just enough to snug it up without being gathered...that would be tricky to work out the math. But you could cut a too-long piece, add it and keep shortening it until you found the perfect length. I probably wouldn't fiddle with it though, it looks great on you! And...I didn't even notice the gapey part until you pointed it out in a later photo!

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    1. Oooh, elastic! I hadn't thought of that, but it is a great idea!

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  7. I really like this top. Wouldn't have known it was a nursing top if you hadn't pointed it out.
    Brenda in the Boro UK

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  8. It looks really great on you!

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  9. Here's another "I never would have guessed this was a nursing top!" As to the jacket, if the fabric is very thick, the gathers might be a problem. Trying it on a fabric you don't love is a good idea.

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    1. That is my worry. It is a pretty thick ponte. Hmmm.

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  10. Your top is fantastic and looks wonderful on you. How thick is your ponte? I think that would be the deciding factor on the gathers. I have had some that is thin and then the red for my Rivera jacket was thick and heavy. Good luck with the jacket, I really like the style of that pattern.

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    1. It is fairly thick, so I may find another pattern for it, and save this one for some lighter wool crepe or twill.

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  11. Oh this is just awesome! Obviously I love polka dots... and nursing... so PERFECT combo!

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  12. love the polka dot top! How clever for nursing!
    Looking forward to seeing how you eork out the jacket!

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