Monday, January 30, 2012

New Look 6082

My first item in the Wardrobe Basics SAL is black slim pants. The show that this SAL is based on called them ponte pants, and that sounded great to me.
The pattern is New Look 6082, which is a wardrobe pattern with several nice pieces. I made view D, which are ankle length (although there is no way to tell that from the drawing) slim pants with vents at the outer hem.
I was going for an Audrey sort of vibe. Except that I don't wear flats.
The fabric is a black ponte knit from Fabric Mart. I really have been impressed with the quality of Fabric Mart's ponte knit, particularly for the price. So often inexpensive ponte is plasticy and reminds me of my cheerleading costume from Junior High. This knit is soft and drapey, without the plastic feeling. I really like it.
Since the pattern envelope doesn't show the pants on a person, I was sort of at a loss as far as what to expect with regard to fit. I compared the pattern to my Vogue 8330 skinny jeans pattern. These were significantly wider, but I decided I could always lop off some width as I sewed them. I transferred the crotch alterations I generally make and went ahead and cut without a muslin. I basted them together to get a sense of the fit, and the legs were quite large. I cut off a total of 1 3/4 inches per leg below the hip to give them a slim shape. I also nipped in 1 1/2 inch in the back waist. The fit in the rear isn't perfect, but it is OK and comfortable.
Since the pattern is drafted for a woven, and I was using a knit, I was on the fence about the zipper, I did install an invisible zipper, but because I was being lazy, I didn't interface the zip area and it bubbled terribly at the end. Not a good look. Since I wasn't sure how I felt about that zipper from the beginning, I didn't firmly interface the yoke. Instead, I used a tricot interfacing and added a strip of wide elastic cut to the length of my waist which I attached to the facing at the waistline to stabilize it there. This way, when I took the zipper out, I could still pull the pants on since the waistline was able to stretch.
Although the pattern claims that these pants are supposed to fall 1 inch below the natural waistline, they hit right at my belly button, which is about 1/2 inch inch below my waist. I am very high waisted, so these pants may fall a bit higher on others.
When I first put these on, Mitch wasn't thrilled with them. He tried for subtle with. "Well, they're different than what you usually wear." I like them though and although he's right that my usual vibe is fit and flare or very fitted, I think these fill a wardrobe niche that I didn't have anything for before, and they will liberate a few orphans that I have collected.

16 comments:

  1. They're very classic looking. I think they look really great on you. I really like that pattern too.

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  2. I think they look nice on you, and very Audrey Hepburn! They seem like the sort of pants that will be super useful come spring.
    I need to get my skates on with this sew along. I am falling behind!

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  3. Very Audrey Hepburn! I think they are wonderful. :)

    SherryV

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  4. These look really great , I love the slim leg style.

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  5. These are great pants on you and they look really lovely. I tried this pattern but didnt have luck with the pants. made the skirt though...

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  6. They are different than what you normally wear. Isn't it amazing how a husband can make a seemingly innocuous comment, and we can tell what they really mean?

    And I've only started wearing flats sometimes a few years back. I only wear them around the house, generally, although they were very handy for running through the Philadelphia airport to catch an absurdly close connection last August. As a generality, I abide by the rule, "If you can't wear 3 inch heels, you ought not go there." I feel that delicate ballerina flats have a place within that rule.

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  7. I like them - you are right about Fabric Mart having awesome ponte knit!

    BTW - I highly recommend Colette Clover as a pants pattern, too.

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  8. These pants look fantastic on you, and the fit is awesomme!

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  9. Your pants look fantastic, classic, chic and stylish. Great job.

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  10. What a great addition to your wardrobe!

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  11. Lovely pants and terrific fit. They look great on you!

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  12. your pants look great, katie! they will be a perfect wardrobe basics. I love that you made out of the knit even though the pattern was drafted for a woven. good call!

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  13. They look great on you, and very Audrey-esque! Nicely done.

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  14. Hi Katie! You always make the best pants!! I know you have done some extensive pants fitting adjustments. I am interested in the crotch depth adjustment in particular. I have the 'happy' (read unhappy for me) under cheek bum smile on all the pants I make. Everything else about the fit is great. When I pull up the waistband the bum curve sits better on my rear and the 'smiles' disappear. What and how did you fiddle with the crotch curve on your trousers? Thanks for the help!! Lyn

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  15. Thanks, Lyn! I love making pants. I am by no means an expert, but I have done a lot experimenting to figure out what works for me. For those rear smiles, I generally "scoop out" the rear crotch curve. This effectively lengthens the rear crotch depth without really affecting the front. Another route I've gone, when I've made a muslin, is to slash the muslin horizontally across the center back seam to determine how much space I need, then transfer that to my pattern, tapering it out to nothing at the side seam. The problems I have with this is that it can adversely effect the grain and that it doesn't change the shape of the crotch, which I find I need. Paper patterns are drafted for a perky 20 year old, and I am not. The crotch curve is so individual and I think it is the hardest thing to get right. I highly recommend Myrna's method for measuring the curve with a flexible ruler. http://blog.myrnagiesbrecht.com/2009/11/tape-tissue.html Very helpful!

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  16. Your pants look fabulous on you!! I just picked up this pattern and wondered if you made any of the other pieces? I particularly like the shell top, jacket and straight skirt combo they featured on the cover of the pattern envelope and am curious about how the patterns go together, fit, etc. Any insight you may have would be very much appreciated!!

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