Ottobre 04/2011-20 jeggings

This is one of those projects that should have been done years ago! When I got this issue of Ottobre, I immediately went out and got some jeggings knit to make these up.

Why did it take me 2 years!? They went together in a flash and are super cute. Bonus that they are comfy and Myra loves them.

They are from the 04/2011 issue of Ottobre, and come in both the kids and teens size ranges. I made Myra a 116, which is a little big, but she measures to a 110, so that's to be expected.

They feature a ton of jeans style topstitching as well as back pockets. Attaching pockets in a knit this unstable takes a little work. I use wonder tape to stick them in place, then spray starch or water soluble stabilizer to keep them from stretching out when sewing. I attached them with a triple stitch on my regular sewing machine. It's sturdier than the coverstitching, so Myra can shove her hands in her pockets without fear.

All the topstitching is purely decorative though. The pattern is a front, back and pocket - super simple! I did the topstitching on my coverstitch machine, but a twin or triple needle would work as well.

The fabric is from Joann. It is a denim colored jersey intended for jeggings. It's a bit thicker than your typical jersey, so it works as a bottom weight.

Myra likes to wear them cuffed, which I think is a fun way to show off the back side of the coverstitching, which has a sporty look. The back pockets are a nice touch as well.

I definitely think Myra is going to wear the heck out of these. They are comfortable and stretchy for play, but still appeal to her sense of style.

Ottobre 03/2013-22 jeans

Now that cooler weather is upon us, Duncan is in need of some long pants. I prefer an elastic waist pant, just for ease of diaper changes, but a sturdy pair of jeans is a wardrobe essential!

Fortunately, they summer issue of Ottobre this year included a pair of slim fit jeans with an elastic waist! As you can see, we are thrilled!

The pattern is #22 from the 03/2013 issue, which Ottobre made up in fun colored denim. I decided to go with a more traditional jean for this pair.

I added a teeny tiny coin pocket, but all the other jeans details were already there, including topstitching instructions and rivet placement.

In back, a shaped yoke and big back pockets, ready for you to embellish and make your own. How awesome is that skull jersey?? You'll be seeing it again soon...

For the topstitching, I went with a dark grey color, to coordinate with the purple skulls. Regular jeans gold didn't go as well. I really like the effect and how well it coordinates with the bright silver rivets.

I did make two alterations for fit. Since the pattern was made to be cuffed, and my guy is not tall, I shortened the legs a total of 3 inches. I like the length as it is, but I didn't leave much room to grow. Live and learn.

The other alteration I made was to provide some diaper room. This pattern is in the "Big Kids" size range, so it doesn't include that. I just added 1/2 inch to the top of the back at the yoke seam, tapering to nothing at the side seams. This gives more curve over the back, which provides coverage and allows the pant to hug the back waist nicely.

I'm pleased with the fit in back. My addition gave him the room he needed, without making the pant baggy.

Functioning pockets are a must in any boys clothing! I'm pretty sure he's collecting gravel in this one. I lined the pockets with some Echino helicopters I had a few small scraps of.

The main fabric of the jeans is stretch denim left over from a pair of my jeans. I'm thrilled that this project was such a great stashbuster! All of the fabrics were left over from other projects! Free jeans!

He wore them all day, and played hard. This pattern is definitely a winner! And it is graded in all three of my kids' sizes! You'll definitely be seeing it again.

Monthly Roundup: September 2013

September had a few really fun sewing moments and I got a reasonable amount accomplished, although there are a few pieces yet to blog about.

I sewed:
1) imagine gnats Bess top shirred version for me
2) LouBee Bimaa sweater for Myra
3) Goodnight Sweetheart PJs for Logan
4) Ottobre 03/2013-17 dress for Myra
5) Butterick 7238 dress for me
6) Ottobre 06/2012-13 pants for Logan
7) Kitschy Coo Reversible Zippy Hoodie for Myra
8) LouBee Bimaa hoodie for Duncan
9) Ottobre 03/2013-22 jeans for Duncan

That's a total of 10 garments, and 22.8 yards sewn up (including muslins). I have started a gradual stash clean out, and also donated 83.5 yards out of my stash. On the other side of the tally, a friend of mine cleaned out her mom's attic, and brought me 3 garbage bags worth of fabric (!!!), in addition to several purchase I made, so I added 83.4 yards to the stash. For the month, that totals up to 83.4 in and 106.25 out. For the year, that puts me at 275.7 in and 265.25 out. I'm only 10 yards positive and I'm not done purging so, yay! I sewed up a vintage pattern and quite a few indies as well. Poor burda is still getting the shaft, but I've got some upcoming plans...

Next month should be pretty fun. The weather has finally started to change, and the mountains are capped with snow. My kids all need some new gear, particularly Myra and Duncan. I'm planning a for real coat for Myra. Her hoodie is cozy, but it's not going to be enough for the snow. I've got some fun wool and we've picked out a pattern together, so that one is high on my agenda. She also needs leggings and pants. She's starting to branch out from her all dresses all the time method of dressing, and her one pair of RTW jeans is getting heavy rotation. Duncan could also use a few pair of pants and some long sleeve casual shirts.

I'm really looking forward to sewing for Red October with some Twitter buddies. Although I probably won't get to both items IN October, I have both a red ponte blazer and a red camel hair coat on the books for this winter. I'm really looking forward to sewing and wearing them both.

Of course, it wouldn't be October without Halloween sewing! Logan went for a storebought costume this year, but Myra wants to be Trixie Lulamoon from My Little Pony. I have some ideas for how to make that happen. I'm totally in the dark for Duncan. He doesn't talk yet, so he can't express a preference. I just have to decide make or buy, and what. I'm on the fence. I like making my kids' costumes, but I'm kinda swamped with things to do this month. We'll see how it plays out.

Kitschy Coo Reversible Zippy Hoodie

Myra has been in need of a new jacket, and since we had a cold snap here in Utah last week, I didn't have much time to knock something together.

Fortunately, the Kitschy Coo Reversible Zippy Hoodie goes together in a flash, so Myra didn't have a chance to get chilly at the playground. And you're in luck, since the Reversible Zippy Hoodie is one of the patterns you can get in the Sew Fab bundle! Only $29.99 for $200 worth of AMAZING patterns! Hurry over, the sale is only on for a week.

This is the third time I've made up this pattern (you can see the first two here and here) and I'm still amazed at how quickly and easily it comes together. I mean seriously, it's fully reversible with all seams enclosed and it only takes maybe 4 hours total to sew. So awesome.

Myra added her own touch to this one by designing and cutting out the pocket appliques. I'm pretty impressed with her creativity! As a bonus, the extra layer of fleece makes the pockets super warm.

You'll note she has her hands in them in all the pics. They are also lined with the fleece, so they're nice and soft.

The fabric for the shell is a fleece print that was given to me by a friend. The selvage says Joann. The lining and cuffs are interlock from Chez Ami. It's lovely stuff. Beefy and soft and an absolute dream to sew. I ordered the zipper from ZipperStop. I was really impressed how quickly it came. It only took two days to go from New York to Utah!

I made the 5Y size for Myra and the fit is great. I like that the length covers her backside and the waistband keeps the breezes out.

We both love how comfy the hood is. It fits her really well, and she has trouble with hoods in general. Big  brains, dontcha know.

Life on the playground can be tough, but Myra's ready to rock in her awesome hoodie!

Fall for Cotton: Vintage Butterick 7238 dress

It feels like I've been working on this dress forever, but it was SO WORTH IT!

I'm warning you now, I took a stupid number of pictures of this dress, and I'm going to post them all because I can. Sorry, not sorry. 

So, this dress began, as many of my makes do, with the fabric. My mother gave me this stinking adorable cotton print with vintage pattern illustrations all over it. Obviously, it had to become a 50s style dress! Then I saw that Lucky Lucille and By Gum, By Golly were hosting Fall for Cotton! It was a sign. I needed this dress!

It will not surprise you to know that I have a rather large number of pattern in my stash from that era, but when I came across Butterick 7238 at Vintage Martini, it was love at first sight. They were obviously made for each other.

The pattern is a fairly typical fit and flare 50s silhouette, but with a few unique details.

The most obvious is the shoulder yoke and collar. The yoke wraps around, shaping the shoulder and upper back area. The collar is cut onto the yoke and seamed at center back. It has a couple of darts, concealed under the collar, for shaping. The entire yoke is assembled, then attached to the dress with a lapped seam. The point of the yoke is actually supposed to be a functional button, but my muslin slipped over my head easily without it, so I just sewed it down.

There is a contrast band at the skirt hem, which is cut on the bias. I added bias cut sleeve bands as well.

In back, the bodice is shaped with darts and the shaping in the yoke. As a girl who has broad shoulders, the yoke is genius! It gives me the movement ease I need without any bunching. Love that!

The dress closes on the side with a zipper. Mine is lapped, and I did a shoddy job. Moving on.

I decided to add a little vintage touch inside and pinked my seams instead of serging them. 

For fit, I made a 1/2 inch FBA, then added another 1/2 inch of ease at the side seams. Thanks so much to everyone who weighed in on my muslin post! I do like the additional bust ease. I also shortened the left side of the bodice to accommodate my lower left shoulder, so that fits really well.

I added pockets and shortened the skirt about 5 inches. It was drafted to be closer to tea length and I wanted it to hit below the knee. The skirt is interesting. It's just a big ole rectangle, but the seams aren't at the side seam, rather they are slightly forward. You can see where I inserted the pocket into the seam. Not only does this make for a perfect pocket placement, it means the skirt has no side seams. Instead, there is a dart on the right, and on the left, a placket is inserted for the zipper. Pretty interesting construction!

It's also nice and twirly.

When I got started making this dress, I was really unsure if I would wear it much. I mean, it's adorable, but does a twirly 50s dress fit into my modern mom lifestyle?

After wearing it today, I have to give it a resounding YES! It's comfortable and easy to wear, and I don't think it's ridiculously costumey if I'm careful with accessories. I can do all of the mom stuff, even playing on the floor! The full skirt keeps everything covered. I may not step out in gale force winds though. Don't want a Marilyn moment!