Simplicity 2614 giveaway!

I was stitching away on my fun springtime dress, when I decided that I needed some trim for the neckline and front band. I didn't have anything in stash that spoke to me, and I didn't have time to run to the fabric store, so rather than waste good sewing time, I grabbed one of my SISC projects to do up. I had white thread on the machines, so that determined my choice.

The winner was Simplicity 2614, and y'all, I'm just not thrilled with it. I really like the IDEA of this top. It's woven, but bias cut, so that it can fit nicely without needing closures. It has 45 reviews on PR as of this posting, and they are generally positive, and I like all the blouses that I see there, but I don't think this one is for me. When I put it on, I feel like I'm wearing a scrub top, which is something I spent far too many years avoiding to enjoy now.

It's too bad, as the pattern is really well designed and nicely drafted. The back is cut on the bias, which is shapely, even without darts, as is the lower front panel. One note about fit (and several reviewers on PR noted this as well) the underbust seam is a bit high in the larger cup sizes. In the top picture, you can see that it doesn't even come below Sandra Dee's (perky and youthful) bustline, and I sewed the seam with a 3/8 allowance to get some extra room.

The major change I made from the pattern was to omit the facings and use bias tape to finish the neckline. The tie conceals the topstitching, so it looks pretty nice, although if I were not making a view with a tie, I would probably line the front bodice instead. I also skipped the cuffs, as by the time I got to that step, I had tried it on a few times, and was sure it wouldn't be in my closet long. I just made a plain hem on the sleeves.

So, on to the giveaway!

I think this is a good pattern, even thought it is not for me. It is now OOP, but if you would like this (uncut) copy, it is yours for the asking. It is a size 6-14, and I will happily ship anywhere on the planet. If you'd like to enter the giveaway, just leave a comment saying so (and be sure to include contact info, so I can find you if you are selected!). I will draw a name from those who are interested on Wednesday, April 11th.

** This giveaway is now closed. Thank you!*

Do you see the sneak peek of my seersucker dress in the background? I think it's gonna be awesome, y'all.

Wadderville, Population: Me.

I had really hoped that this would be a wearable muslin, but it is so not wearable!

Too bad, it's a really nice color. I thought things were moving along nicely until it came time to attach the collar and the neckline was not only a bit too large, but also uneven. I think the front band is the problem.

See how weirdly narrow and bizarrely offset it is? I seriously have no idea how it happened, so I think I'm going to have to go back to square one with this shirt.

It isn't a total loss though. We were able to tease the fit a bit better. There is still a little more room at the side seams than Mitch likes, but I think he may need some of that for wearing ease.

It pulls pretty significantly at the shoulder, despite the fact that the yoke is actually just a bit too wide and falls off his shoulder point. I think a more shallow yoke with pleats at the shoulder instead of center back might give him the room he needs.

One thing I really like about this pattern is that you can choose a separate neck size and body size. As you can see from this picture, I should have gone with a smaller neck.
So, in general I like this pattern. It is a nice basic men's shirt, and I think it is a great starting point, but I'm not sure I want to go forward with it. I just got this great Burda pattern with man style princess seams and I think I could get a really great fit with that. Still, I have made really good progress with this Kwik Sew and I think I could get something wearable next run through. What do you think? Wrestle on with the Kwik Sew or try out the new hotness? (Bonus points if you recognize that movie reference.)

Vogue 8157 - Tell me what to do!

Item # 3 for my wardrobe should have been the simplest piece.  I managed to completely mess it up, so I'm going to have to replace it in the wardrobe.  For the sake of honesty in journalism, I'm sharing it with you.

This picture actually looks not too bad.  These aren't supposed to be hoochie tight, though.  My major error was actually post-cutting.  I cut a size 12, then once I had sewn all the major seams, I tried on.  I zipped them up, and they immediately fell off me.  So I pinched out a bit at the side seams and at CB and ran back to the machine, made the corrections as pinned, and finished the pants - without actually trying them on again.  Ooops.

From the side you can see  the wrinkles at the hip and how the waistband is straining to hold me in.  Not an attractive look...

The back view actually isn't that bad, but they are saved only by the 25% stretch in this fabric.  I wouldn't be able to zip them otherwise.
It really is too bad that I screwed them up.  This is nice fabric and I like the contrast yoke (done with the wrong side of the fabric).  I think this pattern is a winner, so I'm going to try it again.  Just maybe not right away.  I need the sting to heal first.

I actually would have worn them this way, since I don't tuck.  I'm also not really happy with the way that they look with this top, so I was considering replacing them in the wardrobe anyway.  The problem - with what???

Here is my storyboard as it currently stands.  I'm going for a casual but pulled together look.  I'm thinking about a simple skirt or a different capri, but I have no idea what fabric I want.  Here are a couple of things from the stash I'm thinking about.

They top left is a heathery grey ponte knit.  I've been planning to make Butterick 4807 out of it.  I think it would go with my theme and color scheme, but I can't see it with my last piece, which is a button down shirt.  Next to that is a vertically striped twill, also grey, which I would love to make into BWOF 06/2009-104.  This would be awesome with the buttoned shirt, but I'm afraid there would be too many stripes going on with my burda style tee.  The bottom two are a navy linen and lavender twill.  I don't have specific patterns in mind for them, but I was thinking a simple capri or A-line skirt would work for either.  What do you think?  Would you change it up with a skirt?  Keep the capri?  What fabric do you see here?  I have no idea where to go!

Worth saving??

Since I already had this top cut out I decided to go ahead and make it, since I still need a few things before I can start on my Myrtlewood dress.  The pattern is available free from SewingPatterns.com.  It is a Lekala pattern, which is a Russian company that offers patterns drafted to your measurements that you can then print out.  There is an online version as well as CDs that you can purchase for your own computer.  It is an interesting concept, and I wanted to try it out, so it was nice that it was free.  This particular pattern is NOT custom sized.  It comes as a S/M/L, but without any accompanying measurements, so you are on your own to figure out the size you need.  I flat pattern measured, and discovered that the large had a 32 1/2 inch bust and a 31 inch waist.  So, she's square??  And since when is 32 1/2 inches large??  Anyway, that is the size I started with.  I added as much of an FBA as I could without distorting the lines of the pattern.  I rotated my dart into the cowl neckline and then just went for it.

Can you tell from the look on my face that I am underwhelmed with this top?  I haven't hemmed it or added the chain to the neckline - that's what the little tabs are for, and what I thought was cool about this design.

I'm not sure, but I think it might actually be worse from the side, because you can see how the "cowl" sticks out.  Not to mention that there are drag lines EVERYWHERE - across the bust, across the belly, down the back, up the sleeves - seriously, does nothing on this top fit me???
I may not be completely unbiased about this, though.  This thing has been painful from the beginning.  The pattern isn't drafted well.  I'm not sure if there are seam allowances.  The sleeves had too much ease - in a knit top for heaven's sake!  I'm not even going to go into the total lack of information in the instructions.  Poorly translated and sparse at best.  Confusing and contradictory at worst.
I think that I will put it aside for a bit, and come back to it later.  Then maybe I'll be ready to deal with the fact that I think it is too short and will need a band at the hem to lengthen it.

Call it a muslin...

I'm so disappointed in this top. I've been on the hunt for an interesting knit pattern for an alternative to the boring tee. I was hoping this (Butterick 5354) might be it. Alas. It's a tent.It looks not too bad as a flat pattern and even hanging on the line.
And I like the neckline. The pleats are pretty and interesting.
But look, a tent.

And who knew I was pregnant?? (I'm not!!!)

This pattern fails in several other areas as well. The front is faced, which makes sense, since it has all those pleats, but the back neckline is just hemmed and they don't match up well at the shoulders. Fully faced or no facing at all would have been better. Also, the front facing will NOT lie flat. Yes, I graded and understitched. It rolls. I got so frustrated with it after 10 minutes of wearing that I stitched it down along a couple of the front pleats, which helps, but it still rolls on the sides. Grrr. So, if it was just the tent issue, I might try again in a smaller size, but I think the pattern is a fail all around. Good thing it was easy, so I didn't waste much time.