The pattern is Vogue 1050, and it is my first ever Sandra Betzina/Today's Fit pattern. For those who have not sewn a Today's Fit pattern, the sizing system is different. Theoretically, it represents an attempt to represent a more modern (ie, uncorseted) figure. The waist is relatively larger and the crotch curves are more L shaped. The other major difference is the Ms. Betzina writes the pattern instructions, so they don't suck. Actually, they were pretty amazing.
For me, I actually have a 10 inch difference between my waist and hip, so traditional pattern sizing works well for me there. I had to grade down a size at the waist for these to work. But the crotch curve is kind of awesome. From the back, you can see how well that area fits. The front wrinkles are showing you that I need a smidge more room in the hips. I suspect this is because I sewed together the upper part of the pleat through the hips, rather than using closures. I didn't want the hip area of the pleat to gape open and reveal the underlay. My hips are wide enough without a flash of turquoise reminding everyone of the fact. Because the hips a snug, the pants are riding a little high, and bunch up a bit below the waistband.
The other big star of this pattern is the waistband and zipper. The pattern calls for an invisible zipper inserted to the top of the waistband at center back. I don't have many pants with a CB zip, and now I know why. You have to be a contortionist to get into them. Particularly when the bulk of the waistband seam causes the zipper to hang up an inch from the top. The jumping and yanking that ensues is quite comical. Next time it goes to center front. Now, the waistband is awesome. It is constructed in fives sections, with only the front and back sections interfaced. The side sections are stabilized and shaped with short pieces of elastic that are secured in the seams. I think this is one of the most comfortable waistbands I have ever worn, but still flattering and shapely. Even if you don't like this style of pant, this pattern is worth having for the waistband alone.
The fabric I used is a polyester peachskin from Joann. This is the only thing I dislike about these pants. This stuff was painful to sew and press. I almost gave up on it, actually. In the end, between the slightly too snug hips and the crappy polyester, I don't think these will live in my wardrobe long, but they will be replaced. All the while I was sewing this pair, I was imagining a pair in a gorgeous soft linen. Wouldn't that be fabulous?!
