Saturday, February 25, 2012

Simplicity 2149, mostly

My next component of the Wardrobe Basics SAL was the faux fur vest. While I recognize that this is a popular trend, it just doesn't work for me. Instead, I decided to go all out and make a faux fur jacket. I really appreciated all of the feedback from everyone about my muslin choices. The general consensus was definitely in favor of the Simplicity overall (although I wonder how much those crazy Burda sleeves had to do with that!). I really liked the general shape of the Simplicity, too, but something about it just wasn't feeling right. As I stared at the pictures, I realized that what I loved about the Burda was the neckline and curved hem, so I transferred them to the Simplicity pattern and I love the result.
I'm wearing the jacket with my Vogue 8330 skinny jeans (the first pair!) and the ubiquitous burdastyle turtle neck from the 09/2010 issue.
You can see the seams and shape a little better in this view. I actually really like the lines of this jacket and probably will make it again. It has two piece raglan sleeves with princess seams. The princess seaming acts like a shoulder princess, since it inserts high into the raglan armsyce. That made it really easy to ease the princes curves together, even in the D cup pattern piece.
The jacket is lined to the edge with a polyester jacquard from Fabric Mart. I bagged the lining rather than a couture insertion. With the pile of the fur covering my seamlines, I didn't think the extra effort was worth it.
I did do a bit of hand understitching at the neckline. Since you can't press the fur, this was the only way I could control the seam, which really wanted to roll out here. The lining is trimmed about 1/8 inch smaller than the fur to encourage it to roll to the inside, which worked out well pretty much everywhere except the back neckline. The understitching did the trick though.
For a closure I used a single fur hook just under the bust. I considered a second hook, but I kind of like the "babydoll" effect the single hook has. I'll wear it a bit and see what I think. I can always add another later.
I'm really happy with my jacket, and my first foray into sewing faux fur. The fur wasn't too hard to tame, and the jacket is nice and cozy. I really only have one D'oh to report, and I could seriously kick myself for this one. There are no pockets. I planned to put inseam pockets in the front princess seams. I drafted the pattern pieces and placed them, cut them out and then got so excited about sewing this up that I forgot to put them in. *headdesk* I guess you can't win them all...