Monday, May 30, 2011

Groovy Bellbottoms: BWOF 11/2009-125

Since I was born in the late 70s, I basically missed the whole bellbottoms/disco phenomenon this first time around (although I will admit to wearing some seriously awesome bellbottoms in college). Thanks to Joy and her Groovy Bellbottoms Challenge, I get to channel my inner dancin' queen and make some bellbottoms!
I've loved this pattern since I got this issue of Burda, but I wasn't sure a 30 something mother of 3 really needed a pair of crazy wide flares in her wardrobe. But then kbenco made them for her daughters, and I decided I didn't care how age inappropriate they were, I wanted some!
I think I'm in love. Oh, the wide flares, the cute round pockets and fat rounded belt loops; I adore them!
The pattern is from the last Burda World of Fashion (before the name changed to burdastyle), November 2009. It's one of the Take one, Make four patterns, so there are four different versions of these pants. You can omit the godets to make a basic pair of pants, which makes this a surprisingly versatile pattern. It has a nice mid rise and a contour waistband which makes for a good fit. 
I did use my new pants sloper as well as my last pair of burda pants to alter the crotch curve, then I actually made a muslin - I know, but I really wanted these to be awesome. Based on the muslin, I added some length to the back crotch curve and about 1/4 inch to each side seam at the hip, for a total of an inch all around. I had the same experience kbenco did, in that my muslin was snug, but the final pants are actually a little roomy. They're shapely though, so I'm still pretty happy with them.
I also shortened them 1 1/2 inches at the knee, above where the godet inserts. I didn't want to lose any of the flare. I don't generally have to shorten pants, but these were drafted quite long. As this is only my second pair of Burda pants, I can't generalize, but I've had to shorten both, so I wonder if that is typical for burda drafting.
For my facings and linings, I used a lightweight twill with a fun floral print. I often have used quilting cotton for this, as it is less bulky than the denim, but even with mid weight interfacing, I don't find it supports the waistband to my liking. Although this twill is lighter and less bulky than the denim, I like the structure it gives a bit better.
For the topstitching, I took another page from kbenco's book and instead of topstitching to the side of the seam, I topstitched to either side so that I could then topstitch the godet symmetrically. I definitely prefer my topstitching to be symmetrical. I will say, these were not the easiest pants to topstitch. Since all four vertical seams are topstitched, as well as the godets, whichever seam you sew last has to then be topstitched with the leg as a tube. Not easy, but I think it was worth it for the look. Since I knew it would be a bit dodgy, I saved the inseams for last, since they aren't very visible. I'm not going to show them to you, but they are fine for the casual observer.
Mitch insisted on this disco dancing shot. I think I need a new top though. I like this tee shirt (It's from the 02/2010 burdastyle) but I think I need something I bit more funky. Maybe a peasant top? What would you wear with your bellbottoms?