Monday, April 18, 2011

Simplicity 2418

I picked up this pattern several days ago, and have been completely obsessed with it. I've got approximately 14,679,435 other projects in the queue, but this one had to be sewn.
And I'm quite glad I sewed it! It is so much lovelier than I thought it would be, and my expectations were pretty high.
The pattern is quite simple. It is a bias cut tunic with a shoulder yoke. The front shoulders are pleated into the yoke and the neckline forms a small cowl in front, which is hemmed rather than faced.
The back is gathered into the yoke. The yoke is topstiched. The hems are simple narrow hems. The fabric I chose, a silk charmeuse, did make this project a tiny bit more challenging, particularly as the front and back is bias cut. My walking foot was a godsend!  It was still a fairly simple project. Cutting it out was the worst part, construction only took about and hour and a half. Although I think this will be a versatile pattern, it definitely benefits from a fabric with lots of drape. I think it would be spectacular in lawn or voile, georgette or a soft knit (in which I'd cut it on grain rather than on the bias).
The bit of a cowl is particularly nice. It isn't faced, but it does stay in place pretty well. As you can see it is finished with a narrow hem, so there is a chance that the wrong side of your fabric could peek out on occasion. I didn't have this happen much while wearing it, and we took our pictures on quite a windy day. It stayed put surprisingly well.
With this type of sleeve, I always worry about bra coverage. I stitched the side seams as marked on the pattern and the coverage is good.
As far as fit goes, I sewed a size 10 in front and a 12 for the back and yoke, which fits quite well. (ETA: This is my way of doing a cheater broad back adjustment.)  I did not need an FBA, but the cut is generous and the bias cut gives a bit of wiggle room there. I did shorten it by 2 inches as I plan to wear it untucked. Overall, I'm very happy and will definitely be making it again. We'll just add that to the list... First I have some bellbottoms to make!