Vogue 1099 - SISC #2

SISC item #2 is sewn!  I really appreciate all of the input regarding the sleeves of the jacket.  Thanks to everyone!!

Here is the finished product.  I really like the way that it came out!  It isn't like anything else in my wardrobe, which is fun.  The pattern is Vogue 1099, a Badgley Mischka design.  It is a very loose fitting jacket, with a standing collar, shaping in front with pleats and gathered short sleeves.  The pattern includes a slightly gathered undercollar, which I did not make.  I basted it in, and it just didn't make me happy.  Otherwise I followed the pattern.  The lining pattern is included, but does not include the pleats, rather forms a sort of princess seam with the facing piece.  It looks nice, but I don't think it has quite as much ease as the jacket front.  As is was, I actually sewed a size 10 without alteration.  There is so much ease that an FBA wasn't necessary.  The fit is fine in front, but over a more bulky top, the jacket is a bit snug in the back and sleeves.  Obviously designed to be a spring jacket!

The fabrics are both from Hancock's.  The shell is a cotton pique and the lining is polyester crepe.  Both are soft and have a nice drape.  The pique has enough body that I didn't interface the body of the jacket at all, just the facings.  I wanted a soft, more casual look.

So, who's wondering what I did with the sleeve?  In the end, I did the lining per Vogue's instructions - gathering stitches which I tied off.  Both Audrey and Jane M have made this jacket and found the sleeves to have sufficient ease in this area that reinforcement wasn't required.  It looks good that way, but it was a serious pain, so for the shell, I used clear elastic to gather/stabilize.

I generally sew on clear elastic with a zigzag, but I wanted to preserve the look of the lines of straight stitching,  so I used a regular straight stitch.  It was a little fussier to sew on, but I think it looks good.  I initially thought of shirring/smocking with elastic thread in the bobbin, but I wanted to be able to better control the finished length and that isn't really possible.  Then Trena reminded me that shirring elastic seems to have a pretty short lifespan, and I want this jacket to last!

I really thought that this would be a good jacket for my belly, and while it does fit over the belly, I think that it makes me look rather more triangular than I actually am.  Fortunately, I only have a few more weeks before we can see how it looks without the belly!!