Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Burda Magazine 08/2007-112B leopard coat

This morning I made the belt, stitched the belt loops and came upstairs to force Mitch to admire show Mitch my new creation, and he noted that it had just started to snow - perfect for pictures!!
And he was right. Not to mention he gave up his own man-cave time to take my blog pictures. He's the best, y'all.
But you want to hear about the coat, don't you? I apologize if I gush a bit, but I am very pleased with it. There may be an excessive number of pictures. You've been warned.
So, the coat began with this amazing fabric. It is a stretch poplin from Mood, which is still available as I type this. You can get yours here. I ordered it knowing that I wanted a leopard print coat, which it obviously became, but if you aren't really coat inclined, this fabric would also make great pants, a skirt or a lighter jacket. It has a nice amount of stretch and is fairly hefty in weight.

The pattern that I used is from the 08/2007 issue of Burda magazine. I made the shorter length. I chose this pattern for it's uncomplicated lines, as I really wanted my fabric to be the star. Despite it's simplicity, this is really a well thought out pattern. Some details...
The collar construction was really interesting, and built a ton of shaping into what would otherwise have been a big old sack. It's a bit difficult to see from this photo, but the undercollar is in two pieces, with a separate stand that adds shape to the back neckline. The collar back also extends into a dart that shapes the front of the coat and the lapel. The construction was a little tricky, and the Burda instructions were not particularly helpful. If you make this coat, the thing to remember is that the lapel to collar seam has to be sewn first, then the back neckline seam, which extends down into the dart in one pass. It was really fun to sew, once I figured it out. If you want to see details of the tailoring, click here.
The pattern called for a self fabric tie belt, but I decided I wanted a wide buckled belt. I went with a 2 inch wide buckle, as that was as wide as I could find, and I do like it. The belt was simple to make, as the buckle has no tongue, which meant no eyelets to set and made the buckle assembly easier. It works with this thick fabric.
Thread loops hold the belt in place. I used this method, so the only handwork was actually attaching them.
One of the things I really like about this style is the lack of visible closures. This snap is actually covered by the belt, so it looks like the belt is the only thing holding it closed. No buttons or zippers to distract from my fabulous fabric.
As far as fit goes, I did make a few alterations, primarily in the shoulders and back. The back was drafted with a totally straight seam, which on me, meant tons of extra fabric pooling at the waist, while it was still a bit snug in the back and backside. I basically just drew a curved back seam, shaping it in at the waist and giving myself more ease in the mid-back and down from my hips.
You can see on the dress form that it is fairly sleek in back, although I did leave more ease in the waist. The belt pulls that in, while the coat stays comfortable. I also narrowed the shoulders a little. The style is meant to have a slightly dropped shoulder, but that isn't what I was looking for. I added a small pad as well to firm up the shoulder line.
You wanna see the lining?
Teal!! Isn't it gorgeous!?! It's a stretch satin from Fashion Fabrics Club and it is really luscious. It's soft and silky, but also a little beefy - really perfect for a coat lining. The pattern actually only called for a half lining to the waist, but I went ahead and drafted a lining to the hem. If you're going to make a coat, you really ought to line the thing for real, right?
Coat linings are generally left free at the hem, and tacked in place at the side seams. I used a technique from Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings that uses narrow ribbon, or in this case, twill tape in place of hand sewn French tacks. You simply stitch in the tape as you hem the lining, then tack it (I did this part by hand) into the coat hem.
I made a coat! And I love it!

66 comments:

  1. I love your coat! I think you deserve all the things now. And thanks for all the links. I know I'll be consulting them fairly soon. :D

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  2. I love it! The lining color is wonderful. Enjoy wearing this!

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    1. Thanks! And I almost went with boring beige. :)

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  3. Fabulous! What a stunning job! Wear it proudly!

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  4. I love it! All these temptingly beautiful fabrics circulating the interwebs is making it hard to keep to my fabric fast. Thanks for the tips on the CB adjustment and the lining swing tape.

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  5. That is a stunning jacket, the envy of all around you! I can't wait to work on my daughter's leopard trench now! Also, the lining photo is fun. "FLASH" lining! Also, WOMD. :D

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    1. The flasher photos made me smile. :)

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  6. Your coat is beautiful. Fantastic job.

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  7. Fabulous!!!! Love everything about it - especially the lining.

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    1. Thanks! The lining makes me happy, too!

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  8. looks fab! Love the fabric choice inside and out and yep I have to agree with you about lining a coat, I had a similar problem last year- this one didn't have a lining at all, so I drafted one, it just looks so much better with lining - finished even!!

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    1. Really, an unlined coat just seems silly, right?

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  9. You should love this coat! It's wonderful! And of course Mitch wanted to come out of the man-cave to admire it; he's a smart cookie, and knows just how wonderful and talented his wife is!

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  10. Wonderful, wonderful coat and the teal lining is divine! I love the pictures of all the little couture details :-)

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    1. Thanks! I was afraid it was a bit of picture overload, so I'm glad you liked the details.

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  11. Completely fabulous, and of course I love the teal lining. I actually like the details of the pad stitching showing, I think they make it more luxe-looking.

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    1. Ooo, I didn't think of that, but you're right! Totally luxe! Now I feel even more fancy!

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  12. You are totally rocking this coat! You have done our fabric proud. Well done!

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    1. Thank you!! It wasn't hard, with fabric this fabulous!!

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  13. Your workmanship on this is amazing! You outdid yourself on this, and I'm sure will garner many compliments! Job well done!!!

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  14. It is fantastic! Congratulations!

    Thanks for the info on machine tailoring in your previous post. I've been avoiding making another coat because of the labor intensive tailoring techniques I thought I would have to use. I actually prefer the look of your under collar with the stitching. Neat!

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    1. Thanks! I'm really warming to it myself, and it was SOOO much faster! I'll definitely be doing a lot more of my tailoring this way.

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  15. It is absolutely beautiful! I've seen the instagram sneak peeks but I'm blown away with the actual coat! You did a fantastic job!

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  16. Oh Katie - it turned out fabulous. I've loved seeing the peaks along the way. I love it - so glad Mother Nature cooperated and gave you snow for the photo shoot. You Go Girl!! g

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    1. Thanks! It was definitely one of my more fun photo shoots. :) I guess that snow is good for something.

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  17. It's awesome, a good match of pattern and fabric.
    I wonder about the twill tape at the hem . . . how many of those? One at center back and one at each side seam is my guess?
    Very cool technique.
    Your handstitching in that photo is so consistent.
    I like the color of the lining and the idea to use the wool jersey as underlining.
    You made a coat last winter I liked a lot, too.

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    1. The lining book actually didn't specify, but since there wasn't a CB seam in the lining (just the ease pleat), I actually only tacked the side seams and so far, so good after 2 days of wear.

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  18. The fabric is fantastic, and the fit is perfect! I love it - great job!

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  19. all I can say is WOW. it looks fabtastic on you.
    Brenda in the Boro UK

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  20. Grrrrrrr, dah-ling! You'll just "growl" in this beautiful coat!

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  21. It's beautiful. Love the fabric. You look amazing in it.

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    1. Thank you! The fabric is definitely the star!

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  22. Wow! Gorgeous coat, fabulous sewing, perfect tailoring...Impressive!

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  23. Eeesshk, I just saw this on PR and I looooooove it. Amazing!

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    1. Well, it may have been somewhat inspired by your Selfishness and the lovely trench you made a few years ago. I loves me some leopard... :)

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  24. It's a stunner! Will you be featured in the next Threads????

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    1. Ooo, I should totally submit it, huh?!?

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  25. This is amazing! I make kid stuff all the time, but I am so hesitant (read: wimpy) about sewing for myself. You're an inspiration!

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    1. Thanks! I started with kid stuff... Watch out, it's like a gateway drug!

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  26. OMG! What a awesome coat! And you wear it well. Two snaps up.

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  27. I feel so inspired now to coat it up!

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  28. WOW girl!!! and that collar is MAGNIFICENT!

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