Sunday, September 23, 2012

Vogue 8601

After much more angst on my part than it was worth, the jacket is done.
And yeah, I'm pretty sure it is my new favorite thing ever. The wool for this jacket came from the Pendleton Mills Outlet store, and it is so lovely and soft. (Thanks, Mom!!)
The pattern is Vogue 8601, alas now OOP, although it only just came off the "clearance" section of the website, so there are probably a few copies left in the drawers at your local fabric store. I'm wearing it with my New Look 6816 silk pants and Gertie's Portrait Blouse.
The pattern itself is quite good. Drafted well and the fit is typical for Vogue. In fact, I could have saved myself a lot of trouble at the fit stage if I had just made my "usual" Vogue alterations instead of trying something new that didn't work at all. The pattern includes a lining, which I think is excellent, and the instructions were very good, although I did deviate from them somewhat.
Of course, no tailoring instructions are included in the pattern. I used my favorite tailoring book, following the instructions for the fusible method of tailoring mostly (although I hand taped the roll line - much prettier on the outside). Sherry's RTW SAL was also very helpful. Here you can see that I block fused the bodice pieces and added hair canvas shoulder support.
I didn't have any fusible hair canvas, so I used this tip of Sigrid's and stitched my sew in hair canvas to some lightweight fusible interfacing. My machine doesn't do the serpentine stitch, so I settled for a wide, long zigzag. It seems to work fine.
In back, I added a muslin stay. You can also see the undercollar tailoring, which is an on grain strip that stabilizes the stand portion of the collar as well as adding structure to the roll line there.
I'm fairly pleased with the outcome as this was my first attempt at RTW style fusible tailoring. It was definitely faster than doing all of the shaping by hand (it took about half the time that my hand tailored coat took), and it still has a nice tailored look and feel. The only things I am not thrilled with are more about my inexperience with this method.
The back (I LOVE the tails!) doesn't have the structure that I would like. You can see how the side back collapses under the arm. That ease is necessary to a comfortable fit, but the wool I used was so lightweight it doesn't hold up. I should have block fused the back as well as the front. On the other hand, the tails have a beautiful drape and flow since I left them unfused.
All in all, I am thrilled with how it came out. I can see why so many sewists get "addicted" to sewing jackets. Although I am generally a quick and dirty project oriented seamstress, I love this jacket so much, I'm already planning the next. After a few tops and some pants...

19 comments:

  1. The jacket is beautiful, Katie! I'm so impressed with all the tailoring techniques you used. And I love the tails too!

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  2. Gorgeous jacket! The tails are a cool detail. Really great outfit overall--love how you styled it.

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  3. This is a great looking jacket on you. The pink color is a plus for you. Great job with the jacket. I really never paid much attention to this pattern. Yours looks much more appealing than the pattern envelope. Your hard work on this jacket truly paid off.

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  4. Gorgeous jacket, I can see why it is one of your favorites. Your tailoring is perfect. Great job.

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  5. Beautiful jacket, and such a pretty color on you!

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  6. I'm so in awe of anyone who takes the time to tailor a jacket. This is so beautiful and even though you have a few small quibbles with it, you've learned so much for your next one. And I'm sure there will be a next one! Thanks for sharing your progress with us!

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  7. oh, interior shots, and a link to your Mom's blog. How fun. Thanks for the info on the tailoring. I try to do one or two tailored projects per year. A coat is coming up, if I can organize myself. Your jacket is stunning Katie, really a showstopper.

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  8. I love the jacket (especially that fantastic wool)! Wow! Superwoman! I'm so impressed with the jacket and it definitely gives me something to shoot for!

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  9. Great jacket! Sharp lines balanced by feminine pink. I can imagine getting addicted to jackets. Nothing pulls me together better than a jacket.

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  10. Gorgeous, gorgeous! Love the style and the tails, and that pink wool is beautiful!

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  11. Beautiful jackey and great tailoring! It looks wonderful on you.

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  12. Love the color and style of your jacket. I love making jackets and also find them very addicting. Nice work.

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  13. Beautiful jacket. I have that pattern and had set it aside as a tentative part of my fall/winter sewing plans. Seeing your version really makes me want to get around to making it up for myself.

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  14. What a beautiful jacket, Katie! But even more than that, what a great outfit! I wear a lot of separates, and I think you have chosen a perfect combination of garments regarding cut and color. Oh, and I love the tails, who wouldn't ?!

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  15. Wow I really love this jacket. The longer back is such a nice detail and you got the fit perfect!

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  16. Very pretty. It has an Equestrian/English look about it. Nice tailoring.

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  17. Amazing! I really like that riding jacket look, and the sort of "cut away" front is so flattering on you. Nicely done, Kate!

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  18. Very, very cool. Loving the tails!!!

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