Saturday, May 12, 2012

Vogue 1050

I've been planning to make these pants for literally years, but you know how it goes - Oooh, shiny! Mom and I bought our patterns together but she was more on the ball, and made her pair quite some time ago.
The pattern is Vogue 1050, and it is my first ever Sandra Betzina/Today's Fit pattern. For those who have not sewn a Today's Fit pattern, the sizing system is different. Theoretically, it represents an attempt to represent a more modern (ie, uncorseted) figure. The waist is relatively larger and the crotch curves are more L shaped. The other major difference is the Ms. Betzina writes the pattern instructions, so they don't suck. Actually, they were pretty amazing.
For me, I actually have a 10 inch difference between my waist and hip, so traditional pattern sizing works well for me there. I had to grade down a size at the waist for these to work. But the crotch curve is kind of awesome. From the back, you can see how well that area fits. The front wrinkles are showing you that I need a smidge more room in the hips. I suspect this is because I sewed together the upper part of the pleat through the hips, rather than using closures. I didn't want the hip area of the pleat to gape open and reveal the underlay. My hips are wide enough without a flash of turquoise reminding everyone of the fact. Because the hips a snug, the pants are riding a little high, and bunch up a bit below the waistband. 
The other big star of this pattern is the waistband and zipper. The pattern calls for an invisible zipper inserted to the top of the waistband at center back. I don't have many pants with a CB zip, and now I know why. You have to be a contortionist to get into them. Particularly when the bulk of the waistband seam causes the zipper to hang up an inch from the top. The jumping and yanking that ensues is quite comical. Next time it goes to center front. Now, the waistband is awesome. It is constructed in fives sections, with only the front and back sections interfaced. The side sections are stabilized and shaped with short pieces of elastic that are secured in the seams. I think this is one of the most comfortable waistbands I have ever worn, but still flattering and shapely. Even if you don't like this style of pant, this pattern is worth having for the waistband alone.
The fabric I used is a polyester peachskin from Joann. This is the only thing I dislike about these pants. This stuff was painful to sew and press. I almost gave up on it, actually. In the end, between the slightly too snug hips and the crappy polyester, I don't think these will live in my wardrobe long, but they will be replaced. All the while I was sewing this pair, I was imagining a pair in a gorgeous soft linen. Wouldn't that be fabulous?!

14 comments:

  1. Wonderful colours you've chosen!!!

    Yep, that CB zip is tricky, but I have found that, thanks to the elastic sides, I generally tinkle sans unzipping. I would not attempt this with a stretchy fabric that has poor recovery, but it works for the silk gab I used for mine -- I'll bet it will work for your, too!

    Great pants!

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  2. I agree these would be fabulous in linen. The style is really cute on your great figure. (How is your tummy so flat after having those beautiful babies of yours?)

    I may purchase this pattern for the waistband. It sounds so comfortable - it reminds me a bit of a Hollywood Waistband, with some modifications.

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  3. What fun pants! I think they are adorable!

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  4. Thanks for the thoughtful and precise pattern review! I agree - make the linen, stat! (Isn't that a medical term?:)). You look fantastic in these pants.

    I love the idea of the CB zip metaphorically, but in reality, my versions have been not good; and I have ripped a few CB while wearing them! How about a lace up in the back? Haha! Just kidding!

    Can't wait to see your next version!

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  5. The waistband sounds comfy! I have made many pairs of pants with center back zippers, and I actually like them. However, i am not as curvy as you. Both my hips and waist are quite straight. Most of my curve comes from my swayback, and as you've said before, a "ghetto booty". I can't wait to see your next version of these! I love wide leg pants.

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  6. Your enthusiastic review is very enabling. The trousers look great on you. I had some severe struggles with a Sandra Betzina blouse - due to the differences from the Vogue block being in the wrong directions for me, but the waistband on this pattern sounds very tempting. With my generosity of backside I find a longer zip than the pattern calls for rather helpful for dressing purposes - or a secret gusset with button at the side seam...

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    1. I've wondered about that as well. I have avoided Betzina blouses, since my figure is similar to yours, and her draft seems intended for the small of bust and thick of waist, which we are not! She has some interesting designs though.

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  7. Those are fabulous wide legged pants. Very 50s, Katherine Hepburn looking.

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  8. wow those are pretty cool pants! i don't like linen b/c it wrinkles so easily but linen-look--hell yeah! do it! :)
    happy mother's day!!

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  9. These pants look great, amazing actually!
    I really wish I could make myself such a pair...
    But I never have the nerve to try it...

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  10. Ooh, I had no idea about the waistband and the CB zip! can't wait to see them in linen!

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  11. Your description of the CB zip is hilarious. I can imagine bathroom trips being all sorts of entertainment. I love the flow of these pants and the waistband sounds really interesting.

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  12. Very pretty!! www.always-a-project.com

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