Tuesday, May 15, 2012

Mother's Day Maxi

I've been seriously lusting after a bright pink Maxi skirt like this one and this one. And I really dig the high slit on this one.
So I took elements that I loved from all of them and made my own. The fabric is a poly crepe from Vogue Fabrics. It isn't my favorite fiber to sew, but this design was simple enough that it wasn't too bad. Fusible thread tamed the beast.
I started by drafting a floor length column skirt (OK, a big rectangle with the width as my hip measurement and the length as the distance from my waist to the floor). I wanted some flow in the hem, so I slashed and spread at the hem to use the full width of my fabric at the hem only. I added an allowance for a 1/2 inch elastic casing at the top -  more on that in a sec - then cut two full width panels.
I seamed the two panels together on one side only. I used a french seam, since this is the only seam in the entire skirt, I thought it ought to be nice. Now I have a giant semicircular panel that goes around me twice. I made a baby hem around the two side edges and the bottom hem.
Then I wrapped the skirt around itself, with the two hemmed edges up against the seam - one on the inside and one on the outside of the skirt.
This way, I had the look of a long side slit, but with a full layer of skirt underneath for modesty. The unseamed side also allows for a lot of flow at the hemline.
For the waistband, I wanted a bit of width to encourage it to lie flat and to look a bit more like pleats (but without having to pleat 80 inches of polyester crepe - no thank you!). I used this method, with 1/2 inch elastic in a casing at the top and shirring for 4 rows every 1/4 inch. When I finished, it looked strange with the 1/2 inch elastic next to the 1/4 inch shirring, so I added a row of topstitching through the center of the elastic casing. This gives the added benefit of preventing the elastic from rolling in the casing.
I wore my new maxi with a RTW tee shirt and my Vogue 1099 jacket. I've had a hard time styling this jacket, but I really like it with a long skirt. I think the volume at the hem of the skirt helps balance the volume at the hem of the jacket.

11 comments:

  1. Wow.
    Such brilliant colours!
    I love the look of that waistband -- I am curious to know how it wears. I would worry about the elastic curling down around the shirring [Or, is that only a problem with my humongous waist???)

    Still love that jacket! I shall make one from that pattern - someday.

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    1. No curling here, and I do generally have that problem with wide elastic waistbands. I think that the narrow elastic at the top stabilizes it there, and since each row of shirring can stretch relatively independently, they don't curl up. It's very comfortable.

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    2. Also, I don't think the size of waist has any effect, rather the ratio of waist to hip and waist to rib cage. Since you have a narrow waist relative to the surrounding areas, you get curling.

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    3. and, oh, boy(!) do I have "surrounding areas"!!!

      But, that is good to know. I shall try that on my next elastic waist!

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  2. Love, Love, Love the hot pink maxi skirt!

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  3. It came out nicely, and looks good with the jacket. Of course, you know I think you look great in hot pink.

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  4. Beautiful maxi skirt, I really like how you styled it.

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  5. Your modesty slit is genius!! And beautiful!

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  6. Love the idea of folding over the skirt for a faux slit! There's a skirt in the most recent Burda that uses that principle, I'm going to have to make it. I think it goes without saying how much I love that color!

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  7. What a gorgeous flowing skirt, and it does look so nice with the Vogue jacket. Great thinking and execution on the slit too!

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  8. I don't know how I missed this post before, but I am insanely jealous of this skirt right now. I've been looking for a RTW like it for a few weeks.

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