Monday, November 29, 2010

Vogue 1099 - SISC #2

SISC item #2 is sewn!  I really appreciate all of the input regarding the sleeves of the jacket.  Thanks to everyone!!
Here is the finished product.  I really like the way that it came out!  It isn't like anything else in my wardrobe, which is fun.  The pattern is Vogue 1099, a Badgley Mischka design.  It is a very loose fitting jacket, with a standing collar, shaping in front with pleats and gathered short sleeves.  The pattern includes a slightly gathered undercollar, which I did not make.  I basted it in, and it just didn't make me happy.  Otherwise I followed the pattern.  The lining pattern is included, but does not include the pleats, rather forms a sort of princess seam with the facing piece.  It looks nice, but I don't think it has quite as much ease as the jacket front.  As is was, I actually sewed a size 10 without alteration.  There is so much ease that an FBA wasn't necessary.  The fit is fine in front, but over a more bulky top, the jacket is a bit snug in the back and sleeves.  Obviously designed to be a spring jacket!
The fabrics are both from Hancock's.  The shell is a cotton pique and the lining is polyester crepe.  Both are soft and have a nice drape.  The pique has enough body that I didn't interface the body of the jacket at all, just the facings.  I wanted a soft, more casual look.
So, who's wondering what I did with the sleeve?  In the end, I did the lining per Vogue's instructions - gathering stitches which I tied off.  Both Audrey and Jane M have made this jacket and found the sleeves to have sufficient ease in this area that reinforcement wasn't required.  It looks good that way, but it was a serious pain, so for the shell, I used clear elastic to gather/stabilize.
I generally sew on clear elastic with a zigzag, but I wanted to preserve the look of the lines of straight stitching,  so I used a regular straight stitch.  It was a little fussier to sew on, but I think it looks good.  I initially thought of shirring/smocking with elastic thread in the bobbin, but I wanted to be able to better control the finished length and that isn't really possible.  Then Trena reminded me that shirring elastic seems to have a pretty short lifespan, and I want this jacket to last!
I really thought that this would be a good jacket for my belly, and while it does fit over the belly, I think that it makes me look rather more triangular than I actually am.  Fortunately, I only have a few more weeks before we can see how it looks without the belly!!

17 comments:

  1. Oh I missed the previous post on this. Looks ovely though. I also did made this jacket and made the sleeves as the pattern instructed. The clear elastic is a brilliant idea, though! I also skipped the undercollar. I think it looks great on you!

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  2. Oh, ever so cute! Great job, and I love the cotton pique.

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  3. It looks pretty amazing belly or no belly! I love the sleeve detail - and the colour is gorgeous - great job!

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  4. Wow! I missed the previous post as well! I love the jacket on you - fantastic color (and lipstick!). Great job - it looks very professional, and I might add, difficult with all those little details.

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  5. I love that jacket. Love, love, love! I expect to see your mother make one, since she just bought that pattern. I also have it, yet unmade. Sigh.

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  6. I love it when the lining has a great design all hidden away like this!

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  7. Great jacket, I LOVE that lining! Beautiful work!

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  8. I'm glad you sorted out the sleeve issue, because the final result is brilliant! It's a lovely colour on you too.

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  9. It looks lovely, the sleeves are great and i love the lining

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  10. You look great, and the jacket is beautiful. The sleeves are such a neat detail.

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  11. The jacket looks great! I am sure you will get many compliments on it. Turquoise is definitely a flattering color on you.

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  12. Love the way it came out! It's gorgeous!

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  13. Super pretty! I love the color and style:)

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  14. Very bright and cheerful! Like it's maker :)

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  15. This will be a perfect jacket for spring. Really lovely.

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  16. Oh wow... it's beautiful! The color really pops and looks great on you! You have been busy busy with all your sewing! :)

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