Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Simplicity 2764 muslin

So, I slapped together a muslin for this jacket, after tissue fitting and adding a 2 inch FBA and and inch across the hips, and y'all, I'm kind of unexcited about this jacket now.
The initial FBA was a bit much, so I pinned some of the fullness out, so the fit isn't bad, but I'm not sure this shape is doing me any favors. My shoulders are already fairly broad, and the sleeves are definitely maximizing that feature. This is without shoulder pads...
From the side, (sorry so blurry!) it's even worse. I think part of the problem is that when I pinned out the fullness from the FBA, it lowered the bust point, but there is some weirdness at the waist I'm also not happy with. I like the pleats though.
I think the back is my best view. The shoulder width isn't as obvious and the fit through the back is good. 

My other concern is that this pattern won't play well with the large scale houndstooth wool I want to use. 
Here is the seam at the upper bust. I used a home dec weight faille as my muslin fabric so that I could easily see what the "stripe" of the fabric would be doing in the final jacket. Here the ribs are at right angles to each other, which does not bode well for matching the houndstooth. Like at all.

So, I'm not sure what I want to do next. Fix the FBA and try again? Table this and take a breather, see what a week or two in the Magic Closet does for it? Or is this pattern just not good for me? Friends, what do y'all think?


  1. The sleeves definitely look too wide. I think making the sleeves narrower would help. It's a little hard to tell, but it looks to me like there is too much fabric proofing out from the bodice underneath your arm. Is that from the FBA? Or maybe you could just take in the side seam?
    All that said, I think setting a project that is frustrating you for a while is a good idea. Sometimes you just need a break!

  2. The whole thing looks too big I think. Maybe take it all in a little and then try the magic closet? I think it could be really cute with some tweaks.

  3. I think the neck looks too big on you, and maybe that's your issue with the shoulders. It really makes your head look too small for you. I'm not sure I'm loving the pleats, because they seem to make your hips look wider. Maybe if you took it in a little everywhere, it would make you happier, because it is basically a cute pattern.

  4. Sorry, shape does no good. Looks like chinese army uniform :(

  5. I really like the collar--though I do agree that the shoulders might be too wide to start with. Since the jacket has princess seams, is it possible to nix the FBA, make another muslin (annoying I know--I don't know how to get rid I wouldn't know how to get rid of an FBA to start with though...), and slash at the bust and add extra fabric? I think that would help with the excess at the waist, and it automatically helps with the bust point lowering business too.

  6. Any pattern that can't make your figure look good should just be trashed.

  7. 1. You look totally glam in the top photo. Very supermodel.

    2. I would not undertake houndstooth matching for a jacket that is not perfect for me. Part of point of doing a muslin is testing the style, and I think you might be happier if you allocated your sewing time to a different pattern.