Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Myrtlewood muslin

Well, I got the muslin for the Myrtlewood dress put together.   It took me quite a while, mostly because the kimono sleeves have underarm gussets, which I've never done before, so I took my time trying to learn how to insert them.  I'm definitely going to need more practice before I do the real dress!

I'm just doing the bodice, since the skirt is a simple straight skirt, and I'll just tissue fit that.  I am pleasantly surprised at how good the fit is out of the envelope.

According to the envelope measurements, I am an 8, but that is based on my upper bust.  Since the design has a bit of extra ease at the bustline, I don't think I'll need an FBA, but there are a few drag lines around the bust I'm not sure about.

Sorry about the blurry-ness, but you can see the lines that point to my bust point, right along the line where I might add a dart if I were to do an FBA.  What do y'all think?  Side darts and kimono sleeves don't seem like a good combo to me, but I'm not sure of another way to fix those lines.

I did let out the back darts just a smidge, based on my tissue fit on my dress form, who is slightly bigger than me.

I think it looks pretty good in the pictures, so I think I'll keep it this way, but I'll be trying it on a lot as I go.

I did manage to get all of the other things I need to make the dress at the MLK sale at Hancock.  I decided on a dark brown dull satin for the hip sash and coordinating dark brown lining and buttons.  I also got the shoulder pads, which I needed for the tissue fitting. They make me feel like a linebacker.

Here is how it looks without them.  Yeah, I'm thinking I'll get used to them.

Conveniently enough, the copy of Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings that I ordered last week arrived yesterday.  I'm planning on using her "quick lining" method to line this dress.  My wool fashion fabric is beautiful, but it sure is itchy!

ETA (1/19 @8:10AM) So after staring at these pictures this morning, it occurred to me that maybe those drag lines weren't pointing to the bust, but actually were pointing to the shoulder!  I noticed that although I don't like the shape of the bodice without the shoulder pads, the fit is actually better.  So, I let out the shoulder seam a bit.

Look!  I think I fixed it!  Thoughts?


  1. So, this is a mock-up that you intend to discard?? except for the color, and the fix-able fit problems, you could finish this off and wear it -- although: not your color. In the future, why don't you get your sloper fabric in something you would wear, if it turns out as nicely as this??
    Yes: definitely an FBA is called for, although just the tiniest bit.
    don't let the wrinkles at the armscye bother you -- that is the nature of the beast with Kimono sleeves. Think of them as folds, rather than wrinkles.
    Ditch the shoulder pads. It looks fine without them.
    I can't wait for the finished product!

  2. So Ambitious - I can't wait to see the final! I want the Connie Long book on Linings as well:)

    I can't opine on the bust dart - but I am interested to see other's opinions.

  3. I don't know enough about fit to really help you, but it looks like you may have fixed the problem. :)

  4. It does look better. Trying to figure out drag lines can be puzzling! You solved it!

  5. It looks to me like you have a great fit. The Long book on lining is really a good one. You will enjoy that book for many years.

  6. I really like the style of this on you....I think your fix regarding the shoulder seam and ditching the shoulder pad is right on. Looks better. You mentioned about the gussets...I know that Summerest Banks (Pins and Needles) has a tutorial on a gusset. It is from her blue and white polka dot outfit. I think she might give some tips/tricks, but don't hold me to that, it has been a while since I've looked at it.

  7. It's looking really good. Whatever you did to the shoulder seams seems to have fixed the drag lines. Nice!

  8. With kimono/cut on sleeves, you will have lines, so don't worry too much. Somewhat drapey fabric works best for me. I like the pads. My wrap dress is kimono sleeved and uses small (thin) pads and fits better with them. Otherwise the shoulders look caved in and I am not small-shouldered.

  9. That last pic looks really good - you seem to have got the "skim but not cling" down perfectly. I also like the "when I grow up I'm going to be a power suit" outfit on the teeny little man in your previous post, and I bet the new mom does too!

  10. This muslin looks wonderful. I love it and can't wait to see the finished dress. The fabric for the sash will be perfect. I don't know how you do all you do!

  11. I am anxious to see the final product!! Thanks for your offer to pick up buttons - I may take you up on it. I will let you know the beginning of next week.