Monday, September 19, 2011

Simplicity 2403 muslin

I've been working on fitting Simplicity 2403.
I'm making the view on the model on the right, but with the shorter sleeves. This dress is very fitted in the bodice, with a back yoke and a menswear style collar with stand and front button placket. To fit the bodice, I started with a tissue fit on my dressform, which demonstrated a desperate need for an FBA. As you may know, the traditional method for doing an FBA also adds width to the waist, which I don't need, particularly in this fitted dress. In the book The Perfect Fit there is a princess FBA method that doesn't add width, so I decided to give it a try.
Click the picture if you'd like to see it larger
Here is my initial alteration. The purple pictures above describe it. I deviated from the instructions in that they only had a 1/4 inch addition for each cup size above a B, which for me would have only been a 1/2 inch addition. Laugh with me. I added 2 inches, then shaved off about 1/4 inch just at the bust point to correct a bit of a "bullet" look.
Here is the first muslin on Sandra Dee. As you can probably see, she's got a bit too much fabric around the bust, particularly at the bust point.
In back, I did a 1/4 inch broad back adjustment.
Here is how the back looked on me. I'm so not liking the wrinkles all over the waist, which were saying to me both "too tight" and "too long" at the same time. I'm also not a fan of the pouf created by the gathers at the upper back.
You can see the gathers a little better here, although they don't pouf quite as much on Sandra Dee. She's longer in the waist than I am. Lucky girl.
For muslin #2, I shortened the back waist by 1/2 inch, tapering to nothing at the side seams (basically a sway back alteration), and I added 1/2 inch of width at center back, both in the bodice, as well as the waistband and skirt. Then I added back the 1/2 inch I took out of the bodice to the top of the skirt. Instead of gathers at the upper bodice, I did an inverted pleat.
Here is how that looks on me. I didn't re-muslin the skirt, since the alterations were minor. I think the fit is better, but there is still a little pouf. So, gentle readers I put the question to you. Pleat? Gathers? Get rid of the whole bit? Do you think the fit needs more tweaking? Tell me what to do!


Caro said...

move the gathers or pleats - whichever - away from the center out over the shoulder blades.

Andrea said...

I agree that spreading the gathers across the entire yoke will look less "poufy", and in combination with the added width should lay nicely. Your sleeves have gathers and are softer in appearance, and although I like the pleat a lot, the gathers complement your sleeves better. It is looking good overall.

Beth said...

I prefer the pleat. It's a cleaner, sharper look.

Kitschy Coo said...

I agree that moving away from the centre back would make it sit better. Looking good, in awe of all the changes you've successfully made!

wendy said...

Looks good so far. I have that pattern & I keep thinking that it's a nice fall dress look but I haven't gotten as far as pulling it out to muslin. I still love the dress-that-looks-like-a-top-and-skirt look.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

I actually like the gathers. With the good fit you have now (enough room across the shoulderblades and the waist) they should sit softly rather than poof. That said, I hate when I get a poof on my back. With my swayback, there is a fine line between "soft gathers" and "grotesque poof." I understand why you are wary!

Marjie said...

I made a dress last summer that had pleats at the top of the back, and I really hated it. I took the whole thing out, remade it without pleats, and then liked the dress a great deal. Since the pleat doesn't appear in your photo to be designed to give you ease of movement at the shoulder, I wonder what its function is. And the real question is, would you be happier without the pouf in the center of your back? I think it will be great once you work out this issue.

Aroura said...

Tough fix on the back. I think the pleat looks clean and neat, but as Marjie above me pointed out (I wouldn't have thought of it), does it serve a purpose?
I wish you the best of luck "making it work!" It's a lovely dress in the works, can't wait to see it finished. :)

natalie said...

I bought this pattern with the intentions of altering the pattern in the waist and bust. I have put it aside but now seeing yours its giving me motivation to finish it!