Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Vogue 8503

I sewed!! The truck with all of our belongings on it is still in Texas, but I couldn't wait any longer, so I hiked my machine and ironing board up to the card table we're using in the dining room and set up shop.
The pattern is Vogue 8503. I've wanted to sew it for some time. It just looks so cool and chic. I love the dolman sleeve with empire line. I think I've mentioned before that I don't typically find a dolman sleeve flattering, but when the width is balanced by the empire line, I think it has a very slimming effect.
The pattern is fairly simple - darted upper bodice, lower bodice with side seam shaping and hip vents. The neckline is faced. The pattern called for topstitching to secure the facing, but I prefer a cleaner look, so I understitched and secured the facing at the shoulders and center back seam.
Alterations I made were to cut the pattern at a size 12, except for the neckline and facings which I cut on the size 10. I did a 1 1/2 inch FBA, which looks like it was a little aggressive. I didn't want a side bust dart with a cut on sleeve, so I moved all the fullness to the underbust dart, which made it enormous. I transferred about 1/3 of the width to a second underbust dart, which gave me a nicer, more rounded shape.
The fit in back isn't bad. Most of those wrinkles are because it is too snug in the hips and is pooling above them. I probably could have taken out a smidge of a swayback. When I first tried this on, before I had added the facings or marked the buttonholes, I was afraid it was going to be a total wadder. It was too small in the hips, too big in the bust and the neckline gaped terribly. I really like it though, so I wanted to save it. I first tackled the neckline problem.
The neckline is on the bias, so I wanted to stabilize it as well as pull it in a little. My clear elastic is on a truck in Texas, so I decided to use on grain strips of fashion fabric. I stitched them into the facing stitching line with the fashion fabric at the bottom. I pulled the fabric strips taut and allowed the feed dogs to ease the neckline in a little. This stabilized it as well as shortening the neckline, which makes it curve in to my body better.
I also got a little creative with button placement. Since it was too large in the bust and too small in the hips, I just slanted the line of the buttons to lap over a little more at the top and less at the bottom. I also used one more button than Vogue called for.
While it isn't perfect, it is wearable and comfortable and I do really like the pattern, so I think I may give it another try. I'm pretty happy with my save of this version, but next time I should probably give myself a little more time in the fitting stage.

22 comments:

  1. It's a pretty top, especially paired with that skirt! Glad that you're back at the sewing machine.:)

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  2. Very pretty! Brown is a nice color for you. I'm sure it's hard to predict how much FBA you need when you're moving between styles and pattern companies. My shoulder alterations have transferred well so far.

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  3. Welcome back to sewing!! I love your top - brown and white is a favorite of mine. Looks so summery! I think your alterations are genius. I wouldn't have though of the on-grain fashion fabric strip! Great Great Job! Hope you're enjoying Utah!

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  4. It's great. You are such an awesome seamstress.

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  5. Yum. It's gorgeous! It seems like the kind of shirt I (or more appropriately, you) would reach for again and again.

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  6. It looks great on you! Good job!

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  7. Welcome home to your sewing table!

    And I love that top! Thanks for bringing my attention to it - my list of wanna-buy Vogues is growing & getting ready for the next time they're on sale....

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  8. Hey! I just finished up this same top a couple weeks ago! And had some of the same issues and solutions, ha ha! I think yours may be more wearable though, mine will require a tank or cami underneath, which kinda takes away from the cool-factor I was aiming for.

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  9. Fun to be sewing again. That is a lovely photo spot!

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  10. You are a true sewist! Your top is very, very nice. Hope your move is going smoothly.

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  11. I think it looks pretty fabulous on you.

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  12. Cute, cute, cute...I've been thinking about this pattern and you've revived my interest in it!

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  13. Well, maybe you needed more time in the fitting department under ideal circumstances, but you really needed to sew something much more than that! It came out well, and moving the buttons around was a great way to alleviate the fit problems.

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  14. I am glad you were able to do some sewing. I know I miss my sewing stuff when I am away from it for more than a couple days. The top looks really cute on you. I think I have this in my pattern collection too. Your button hole arrangement, 4 instead of the three shown on the pattern is a much safer one, and looks good with the slightly angle front.

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  15. Nice save on the fitting! The shape really does work for your figure. So glad you could find a way to sew while still waiting (!!!) for all your belongings. I was sans possessions for 3 days when I moved to DC and it was horrible. I hadn't thought to bring a chair in the car with me so I had to go buy one of those camp chairs and a clock radio so I'd have something to listen to.

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  16. I thought of two more things on sewing room. The lights I installed get very hot so I never use them except when it's cold, so here in Texas not very often. I think they are hallagen. Also I put in laminate wood flooring and it is so easy to slide from machine to machine and clean up is so much easier than when I had carpet. I put a peg board up behind the machines and it really comes in handy.

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  17. Welcome back. I hope you are settling in alright.
    This blouse got summer written all over it. It's lovely.

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  18. Great job on making this blouse work, and work it does. The color, the style, the buttons, all look wonderful on you. I have missed a couple of posts here and didn't realize you were moving. So glad you have safely arrived. Enjoy your new home!

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  19. it looks like a great top! And I've missed seeing you work! Glad you're back at that!

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  20. This top looks fantastic on you, and it is perfect worn with the white skirt.

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