****************************************Really, I have made these shorts 6 times, and Mitch loves everything about them, so I'm pretty sure there will be more.
So, first of all, I really love the instructions in this pattern, and I follow them. There are a few places I deviate, and that is all I'm documenting here.
Supplies: Kwik Sew 2881
Heavyweight, slick spandex. I like the Moleskin Matte from Spandex World. It is an 8 oz. weight and has a nice feel.
Poly thread. I use Mettler Metrosene.
Stretch 70/10 needles. Jersey needles will work in a pinch, but I get a more consistent seam with stretch.
3/4 inch knitted elastic for the waistband
gripper elastic for the legs
For seams: triple stretch stitch
For attaching elastic and topstitching: triple zigzag
Be sure to double check each seam as you go to make sure that the fabric didn't slip. Just stretch the seam open and look for gaps in the seamline.
These work up quickly, but the inner leg panel is tricky to attach. Here's what worked best for me:
For the waistband, I like to give myself about a 1/8 inch "header" over the top of the elastic,
OK, now on the the Gripper Elastic Tutorial... The pattern calls for a traditional elastic finish on the legs, but that tends to ride up, so I used gripper elastic instead, which is what you'll find on RTW biking shorts. Installing it isn't hard, but I've picked up a few tricks along the way that have made it easier for me. Here is how I do it.
First, construct your garment. Installing the elastic will be in the round and should be pretty much your last step. Now, you need to decide how much elastic you need. Gripper elastic is very "stretchy" and doesn't have quite the same recovery as regular knitted elastic, so you want to use a slightly shorter piece, as it will stretch out a little as you sew it. Pull it quite snugly around the body part it will eventually be on, and don't allow for any overlap. To join the ends of the elastic, I found that it was more comfortable to seam it, rather than overlapping and stitching.
Once you have a loop of elastic, place it wrong side down on the right side of your garment.
And that is it! No riding up for you!