Thursday, April 22, 2010

Design It Yourself Tee shirt

Well, I finally got my tee shirt drafted and muslin sewn!
I actually went ahead and hemmed it, since it turned out surprisingly wearable.  It's nice to have a tee shirt that actually holds the girls in...

I have to say that I had a few issues with the way that it was drafted in the book.  This is clearly meant for the less than B cup, hasn't breastfed babies or been affected by gravity set.  I do not fall into this category, so I had to make a few modifications.  The first thing that I had issues with is that the front and back pattern pieces are the same.  I don't know about you, but my front is a bit different then my back.  I'm just sayin'.  My other major issue was the assumption that my bust point and my armpit are at the same level on my body.  Let me just say that my bust point hasn't been within waving distance of my armpit EVER.  Not even as a perky teen.  No never.  I decided to work around these little problems by drafting the pattern with my high bust (which is basically the measurement around the chest at the level of the armpit anyway), and then doing an FBA to accommodate the girls.
Here is the front/back as drafted with my high bust measurement.
Here is how the front looks after my FBA.  I didn't want to end up with a honking large side dart, since I think darts on tee shirts are odd, so I did a Y-dart FBA.  There is a great tutorial for this on Debbie Cook's website, but I can't link it currently, as she's reorganizing her site right now, so everything is down.  You can find a good explanation of it in P/P FFRP.  There is still a dart there, just not as big.
When I put the shirt together, I decided to try gathering the area of the dart instead of actually sewing it.  I'm not sure I love the way it turned out, but I think I did the gathering too low, so it's making me just a little bit saggy looking and I still like the idea, so I may try it again with higher, tighter gathers.

I have enjoyed this drafting journey.  I really feel like I understand a little bit better how patterns go together.  That said, this took forever!!  And all I have to show for it is a boring tee shirt that I could have just made with my Jalie pattern in 30 minutes or so.  I like to have a variety of styles, and I just can't see drafting a new pattern every time something tickles my fancy.  I also am so NOT creative.  So, here I am - a pattern girl.

13 comments:

  1. THat's exactly how I feel about drafting. I'd rather let someone else do the work and modify details however I want. I feel the same about draping.

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  2. It's cute and looks like a good fit. What kind of material did you use?

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  3. Yes, you are creative!( I used to hate it when my students would say that. We are all creative, it just takes practice) Pattern making is so difficult that talented pattern makers sometimes make more than designers, and are very much in demand in the industry. Your T shirt came out really well, espcially for a first try. I'd wear it in a second :)

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  4. I'm totally a pattern girl, too. The top fits so well! I like the idea of gathers instead of a dart (not that I need either, belonging to the less-than-B-cup--or A cup for the matter--crowd).

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  5. It looks like it fits perfectly! I'm a pattern girl myself. Vogue 8536 is a basic tshirt pattern with gathers instead of a dart, too... if you want a pattern to try. ;)

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  6. Shut up - you can make a Jalie tee in 30 mins? I was proud to be done in 3 hours!!

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  7. I haven't been interested enough to try drafting the tee yet. I'm still fiddling with the pants draft, but it looks surprisingly good. I never did get the bust point/armhole thing. Is she actually a man???

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  8. I'm a little bit scared that you did a FBA to this, I thought I wouldn't have to! Looks good though, well done for first draft :)

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  9. Yeah, I really like patterns, too. Frankenpatterning is fun, but the draft from scratch is a bit intimidating. Eeek.

    I think your shirt came out really well. I like it!

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  10. Thank you! I was looking at my Tee, wondering if my boobs were deformed! Having read your blog I'm now re inspired to try again :)

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  11. This is really good to know. I have this book sitting on my shelf and I've been wondering how things turn out. The front is the same as the back? Wha? Bizarre. I'm a pattern girl too--I like the crisp paper and all the happy styles and the envelope art. Still, when I've messed around with drafting, I've come away with a ton of helpful info about my body. If I had 30 more hours in the day, maybe I could draft more. :)

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  12. I often think the same thing about pattern drafting. I want to make my own patterns to get just what I want but it is so much faster to use one already done. I have trouble keeping focus on projects that take too long.

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  13. You may be a pattern girl, but now you have clearly demonstrated that you are a pattern girl by choice, not necessity! Terrific t shirt, and excellent drafting outcome.

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