Monday, March 15, 2010

Vogue 8598

I  promised a picture of this modeled, and here it is!  In the posed picture the fit issues may not be immediately apparent, so here we go...
As a frame of reference, I started with a size 12, did a 5/8 inch princess FBA using Debbie Cook's amazing tutorial.  Since the waist fit fine without the FBA, I also took out 1/2 inch at the waist from the princess seam to compensate for what the FBA added.  Then during construction ended up taking another 7/8 of an inch from each side seam from just above the waist to the hemline.  All told, I added 1 1/4 inch to the bustline, then had a net loss of 3 1/4 inches from the waist and 2 1/4 inches from the hip.
After all that the fit in the back is so-so.  I think I may need a bit of a sway back adjustment as I have a little pooling above the bum.  Or maybe I need a bit more space for the bum!
In front there is a bit of extra fabric above the bust...
the neckline is enormous
as are the cuffs.
But there is major pulling under the arms.  That is as high as I can raise my arm.
I think that the armhole is just too low.  There is a sleeveless view, and I suspect it may have been drafted for that with the sleeves added as an afterthought.
But aren't these awesome sleeves???

So, my thought is that perhaps I need to go down a size and just do a larger FBA to compensate.  Could it be that simple???  What do you think?

13 comments:

  1. If you email Vogue with your concerns about the draft--like the collar, for instance, and the armsythe issue, they will proably reply. The blouse is a terrific style, so I would try to solve the fit issues. Maybe lay the Vogue pattern over another pattern that you like and trace a new armsythe and sleeve cap.

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  2. That's exactly what I was going to suggest. I think if you took out that much from around the body and have that much extra around the upper bustline, you're just in too big a size. Plus, IMO no way do you only need 1/2" added as an FBA under any circumstance, so that points to the base size being too big, in my book. (As an example, in a sloper I have to add 5" total to the bustline... and I'm not as thin as you are! Even in a really loose top, I still have to add 3" minimum.) I'd try at least one size lower, maybe two?

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  3. What a shame there are fitting-issues with this blouse. Because it looks so wonderful on you. I hope you'll find a solution for the next time.
    The sleeves are very pretty. They give the blouse a very feminine touch.
    Nice to see a picture of you!

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  4. What a very unique sleeve pattern!
    Yes, it looks like you need a little more room in the bust, and a higher armscye. IMO woven blouses shouldn't be overfitted.... On this version, you could fix the cuffs a tad by moving the buttons. The sleeve also looks like it's a bit too long. I'm sure you'll have all these tweaked to perfection in your next iteration, though!

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  5. forgot to say that my 5" addition was across the whole width of the front, so I normally add in 2.5" for the FBA. Just in case I wasn't totally clear (who, me? not totally clear? what a shocker!) :-) It is a cute blouse though!!

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  6. The sleeves are totally awesome! I do think you should go down a size or two. That's a whole lotta fabric above the bust. Do you pick your pattern size by using your high bust measurement?

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  7. That's a shame about the fit, but it's beautifully made, and you're right - the sleeves are really pretty!

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  8. Ok - my 2 cents worth .. there are lines pointing to the bust that suggest more ease is required there - standard ease for movement across the bust is 4 inches above body measurement. Very fitted shirts usually have some lycra/elastane component to make up for the lack of wearable ease. This is a woven style, without stretch, so my guess is to make it a close fitting style you'll end up standing like a mannequin! For more movement in the arms, check that the bicep has plenty of room. Often I get that "straight jacket" feel because there's not enough room for my upper arms to move. That's another area that needs plenty of ease.

    You've done a great job with the construction of that shirt. It's got a lot of very interesting details. Great sewing.

    I'm with those who say that woven tops and children both require a relaxed fit and plenty of ease!

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  9. I am so sorry to hear about the fitting issues you met with this blouse, because it certainly is a fantastic style, and really, if you can work out the issues it will be a SPECTACULAR top. I just love those sleeves!

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  10. Wow!! I found the one pattern I did with a cotton woven to be impossible to fit exactly like I would want - almost any other fabric seems easier to fit - for example, wool, knits, etc. . .

    Love the blouse - with an old pair of jeans it just looks so detailed and comfy! I have arm problems too in the armseye - normally I widen the shoulder and actually shorten the bottom - but I have big shoulders and you are thin!

    Good luck I can't wait to see what else you post!

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  11. I don't think I'm really qualified to add my two cents about the fit issues, but I hope you can work them out as it is a very pretty blouse. Really fun buttons, too. :)

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  12. I really like this blouse, it looks gorgeous. Re the fitting, it sounds as if your plans would work to me. I would go down a size above the bust, raise the armscye and increase the FBA and maybe ease out a little at the hips.

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  13. The blouse looks gorgeous, it looks worth working on! It sounds to me as if you have worked out most of the fit issues. I too would start with a smaller size above the bust, raise the armscye and maybe ease out a little at the hips to get rid of the pooling. I think adding a sway back adjustment might take out too much wearing ease. I have trouble with blouse fitting and as other people have mentioned, it is easy to overfit a woven blouse and then not be able to move!

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