Monday, March 15, 2010

Vogue 8598

I  promised a picture of this modeled, and here it is!  In the posed picture the fit issues may not be immediately apparent, so here we go...
As a frame of reference, I started with a size 12, did a 5/8 inch princess FBA using Debbie Cook's amazing tutorial.  Since the waist fit fine without the FBA, I also took out 1/2 inch at the waist from the princess seam to compensate for what the FBA added.  Then during construction ended up taking another 7/8 of an inch from each side seam from just above the waist to the hemline.  All told, I added 1 1/4 inch to the bustline, then had a net loss of 3 1/4 inches from the waist and 2 1/4 inches from the hip.
After all that the fit in the back is so-so.  I think I may need a bit of a sway back adjustment as I have a little pooling above the bum.  Or maybe I need a bit more space for the bum!
In front there is a bit of extra fabric above the bust...
the neckline is enormous
as are the cuffs.
But there is major pulling under the arms.  That is as high as I can raise my arm.
I think that the armhole is just too low.  There is a sleeveless view, and I suspect it may have been drafted for that with the sleeves added as an afterthought.
But aren't these awesome sleeves???

So, my thought is that perhaps I need to go down a size and just do a larger FBA to compensate.  Could it be that simple???  What do you think?


  1. If you email Vogue with your concerns about the draft--like the collar, for instance, and the armsythe issue, they will proably reply. The blouse is a terrific style, so I would try to solve the fit issues. Maybe lay the Vogue pattern over another pattern that you like and trace a new armsythe and sleeve cap.

  2. That's exactly what I was going to suggest. I think if you took out that much from around the body and have that much extra around the upper bustline, you're just in too big a size. Plus, IMO no way do you only need 1/2" added as an FBA under any circumstance, so that points to the base size being too big, in my book. (As an example, in a sloper I have to add 5" total to the bustline... and I'm not as thin as you are! Even in a really loose top, I still have to add 3" minimum.) I'd try at least one size lower, maybe two?

  3. What a shame there are fitting-issues with this blouse. Because it looks so wonderful on you. I hope you'll find a solution for the next time.
    The sleeves are very pretty. They give the blouse a very feminine touch.
    Nice to see a picture of you!

  4. What a very unique sleeve pattern!
    Yes, it looks like you need a little more room in the bust, and a higher armscye. IMO woven blouses shouldn't be overfitted.... On this version, you could fix the cuffs a tad by moving the buttons. The sleeve also looks like it's a bit too long. I'm sure you'll have all these tweaked to perfection in your next iteration, though!

  5. forgot to say that my 5" addition was across the whole width of the front, so I normally add in 2.5" for the FBA. Just in case I wasn't totally clear (who, me? not totally clear? what a shocker!) :-) It is a cute blouse though!!

  6. The sleeves are totally awesome! I do think you should go down a size or two. That's a whole lotta fabric above the bust. Do you pick your pattern size by using your high bust measurement?

  7. That's a shame about the fit, but it's beautifully made, and you're right - the sleeves are really pretty!

  8. Ok - my 2 cents worth .. there are lines pointing to the bust that suggest more ease is required there - standard ease for movement across the bust is 4 inches above body measurement. Very fitted shirts usually have some lycra/elastane component to make up for the lack of wearable ease. This is a woven style, without stretch, so my guess is to make it a close fitting style you'll end up standing like a mannequin! For more movement in the arms, check that the bicep has plenty of room. Often I get that "straight jacket" feel because there's not enough room for my upper arms to move. That's another area that needs plenty of ease.

    You've done a great job with the construction of that shirt. It's got a lot of very interesting details. Great sewing.

    I'm with those who say that woven tops and children both require a relaxed fit and plenty of ease!

  9. I am so sorry to hear about the fitting issues you met with this blouse, because it certainly is a fantastic style, and really, if you can work out the issues it will be a SPECTACULAR top. I just love those sleeves!

  10. Wow!! I found the one pattern I did with a cotton woven to be impossible to fit exactly like I would want - almost any other fabric seems easier to fit - for example, wool, knits, etc. . .

    Love the blouse - with an old pair of jeans it just looks so detailed and comfy! I have arm problems too in the armseye - normally I widen the shoulder and actually shorten the bottom - but I have big shoulders and you are thin!

    Good luck I can't wait to see what else you post!

  11. I don't think I'm really qualified to add my two cents about the fit issues, but I hope you can work them out as it is a very pretty blouse. Really fun buttons, too. :)

  12. I really like this blouse, it looks gorgeous. Re the fitting, it sounds as if your plans would work to me. I would go down a size above the bust, raise the armscye and increase the FBA and maybe ease out a little at the hips.

  13. The blouse looks gorgeous, it looks worth working on! It sounds to me as if you have worked out most of the fit issues. I too would start with a smaller size above the bust, raise the armscye and maybe ease out a little at the hips to get rid of the pooling. I think adding a sway back adjustment might take out too much wearing ease. I have trouble with blouse fitting and as other people have mentioned, it is easy to overfit a woven blouse and then not be able to move!