Tuesday, March 23, 2010

McCall's 5142

The heart-stoppingly cool jeans are finished!
And I am mostly happy with them.  I am still trying out jeans patterns, so this is McCall's 5142, the Palmer-Pletsch "Perfect Jeans" pattern.  I don't know about perfect, but I will give it a pretty darn good!  I have a few radiating lines from the front crotch, which don't make me totally happy.  I did scoop out the curve about 1/4 inch, which improved the situation there, but didn't completely eliminate it.  They are quite comfortable, though.  No binding or pinching.  These are made in non stretch denim, so the fit is fairly unforgiving.
From the side you can see that the fit through the hips looks good, but I have a few diagonal lines that go from hip to knee.
You can see them better from the back view.  I am wondering if I shouldn't have scooped a bit out of the back crotch curve as well to improve the fit back here.  I did take in 5/8 inch at center back starting at the waistline and tapering out to nothing at the beginning of the crotch curve.  Regardless of the wrinkles, these are very comfortable pretty much everywhere.  My biggest gripe for these jeans is that this view, which is a lower rise, has a straight waistband.  Despite my alteration to the back of the pant, the waistband gapes!!  I think a contoured waistband, which the other view (with the "Mom jeans" rise) has, would be better for this view as well.
Here is a better view of the awesome pockets.  I borrowed another cool detail from Mary Nanna and copied her back belt loop, which she copied from RTW.  I think it looks cool.  I realized after taking all these pictures that I totally forgot to apply the rivets!!  I think jeans really need rivets, so I'll be putting them on soon.  You'll see them again, I'm sure!  At least when I post all of the mini wardrobe pics!

So anyway, with regard to the search for the one true jean, I don't think this is it for me.  The things I like are the rise - not too low, not too high, and the shaping of the jean itself, particularly in the hips, thighs and back.  Things I don't like - The front pockets gape open just a little, the waistband would be better if it were contoured and the legs have no shape at all - they are completely straight.  Will I wear them?  Heck yeah!!  They may not be perfect, but they are a whole heck of a lot better than anything I've ever gotten in RTW.  I mean really, have you ever seen jeans for sale with EKG pockets?
I also have to give another shout out to Mary Nanna.  Not only have I blatantly copied so many cool details from jeans that she has made, she gave me several tips regarding this pattern that were very helpful as I was going along, particularly with regard to sizing.  I've gotten so accustomed to the ridiculous amount of ease that you typically find in McCall's patterns, that I generally cut a 10, despite the fact that I measure to a 14.  This pattern actually has a reasonable amount of ease.  I cut the 12, and am really glad that I did!  I also have to credit KnitMachineQueen for her timely post full of jeans sewing tips.  Was that ever helpful!

21 comments:

  1. Nice! Making jeans is so beyond me that I'm just impressed you made them at all, but these are really nice. I have a Palmer-Pletsch shirt pattern in my new batch of McCall's patterns. I didn't realize till I got home and read the instructions.

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  2. Forgot: I know I'm a dork, but you can call these your "EK-jeans".

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  3. Love those EKG pockets. Maybe that will become your trademark!

    You might like to take a look at
    http://www.trudyjansendesign.com/
    She has a jean pattern which has a seam right up the middle of the back leg. I think it's a nice design feature, AND it's an opportunity to fit the back leg as well.

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  4. Your jeans look great! I love the EKG pockets too. What a fun addition.

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  5. Love the EKG pockets... They make me wish I had gone to medical school!!!! I think they look great on you. Isn't it funny how we fuss so much more over fit when we are making our own clothes than when we buy them? I wonder how many people would even notice the creases and diagonal lines you point out!

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  6. I think these look great on you! And I'm still gaga for those back pockets. :)

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  7. Those are a great pair of jeans!!! Better the RTW any day of the week!

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  8. These looks great and it matches your top perfectly!

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  9. They look fantastic!!!! Congratulations on a cool pair of jeans. I like the trouser style of the unfitted leg, but it's not a classic jean look, it's true.

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  10. wow - they look amazing - you did a great job on them - I have made this pattern 3 times and I still never got a "perfect" fit - that, I'm afraid, only comes with stretch..grrrrr.

    still yours look so very good - brilliant job with construction.

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  11. I like your jeans and I'm just wondering if you didn't mirror image the pocket design on purpose? As far as the diagonals it seems to be pointing to your calves for some reason. You might need to change the angle of the legs at that point. I'm so happy that my tips helped you and will add that I had the terrible gaping problem too which I remedied with a same dart in the yoke on each side of the center back.

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  12. I really like this pair of jeans on you - stylistically the pockets being lower on the back are "hipper." And gives you that I've got "good junk in my trunk" look aka Kim Kardashian or Jennifer Lopez - way to go!!

    I do think the darker wash really works too!!

    As a self-declared jeans snob - I give you the thumbs up!!

    I read on a pattern review JStern chat that scooping out the back is how the designer jeans are made today (think true religion or hudson) - that can be super skinny or low waisted as long as they have the scooping out in the crotch - they will fit like a charm - I can tell the difference in your fit.

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  13. Your jeans look wonderful! Love the EKG pockets.

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  14. Nice jeans!!! You've done a great job!!! The pockets are super cool for sure:)

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  15. The jeans are fantastic! Even though there is a bit of wrinkling they still look great. I also LOVE the pockets. What a great way to put your stamp on them. Your shirt looks really nice also!

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  16. Katie, I love, love your cool EKG pockets! How creative is that?! Anyway, I find your sewing creations very inspiring. I just started teaching myself to sew in May of 2009 and hopefully one day I'll be making awesome clothing like yours someday (while still trying to find time to practice medicine!)
    Sony

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  17. Your jeans look awesome! Love the pockets.

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  18. Fabulous jeans and pockets! I like the big carrier in the center back too, and the Betzina pattern I have offers that as an option, so I'm going for it!

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  19. I am also a jeans snob and these totally pass. I'm partial to a trouser pant style, maybe because they rarely look great on my short self. Yours look awesome though, I'm inspired! I think I'll start with shorts for summer and work myself up to jeans though :-)

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  20. I have to try making jeans...you've inspired me to try!

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