Friday, March 12, 2010

Design it Yourself skirt: Pattern drafted and muslin

The Kitschy Coo Design-It-Yourself Clothes Sewalong is starting to heat up, and I was feeling behind the power curve!  So, I drafted my pattern and got going on my muslin.
Here are my pattern pieces.  I deviated only slightly from the instructions in that I didn't do a front dart.  I have a reasonably flat stomach, so I don't see any point in adding curves there.  I do have significant "back" so I deepened the dart in back to accommodate my posterior curves.

I cut it out of some scrap fabric and sewed up a muslin!  I know, me, a muslin?  I want to make the final version out of some silk twill and I didn't want it to end up yucky, since I can't get any more of this particular print.  Besides, I've never drafted anything fitted before, so I had no idea how this was going to go.
From the front.  I think I was holding the camera funny, since the picture is at a slight angle.  I'm not sure why my hips look uneven.  Probably the somewhat hasty and slapdash zipper installation...
From the side the fit looks good.  Excuse the pointy butt darts.  It's a muslin, after all!  I'm not sure about that side seam, though.  I think that it may be listing a bit to the front at the hemline.  What do you think?
I'm very happy with the fit from the rear.  Since I am a bit more curvy than the standard block that most pattern companies use, my rear view is seldom this good.  I am definitely a fan!

A few comments on the book itself.  Since I am a very novice pattern drafter, I think this is a perfect book for me.  Someone with more experience would probably find it a little simplistic.  The woven blouse, for example, doesn't even have bust darts.  This is also not a sewing text!  The assembly directions are quite brief, so if you haven't already sewn together a skirt or two, you may find yourself in trouble - or at the very least in need of another book to help you out!  With those caveats in mind, I heartily recommend this to someone who is just getting started in pattern drafting.  It is any easy and fun read and the drafting instructions are clear and well written.


  1. That's looking really good so far! (If you hadn't written that this was a muslin, I wouldn't have guessed it :-))

  2. Great job, way to go girl, this skirt fits so well...Now you are tempting me.....Have a good one

  3. "I have a reasonably flat stomach..." I think I may hate you a little now. Kidding.

  4. I think you still will need to make a slight adjustment at the back to raise the hemline and bring the sideseam back into alignment (it's the same adjustment of course). Do you usually do that on your regular patterns? Otherwise this looks really great!

    The pattern-drafting is simplisitic, I thought, even if you've never done patterns but had extensive fitting experience. But you know, I like the idea of starting from scratch and seeing what you get. So far everyone seems to be getting something pretty good.

    I'm curious to see how my versions of these go since they are clearly intended for people who are pretty slim. Should be interesting, right?

  5. I wonder if you enjoyed drafting your pattern? Some people enjoy it, some not. I'd rather use a printed pattern--let someone else do all the work, and make my fitting alterations or design changes to it. Enjoy your flat tummy because one day-that middle-age squat thing happens! The body morphs.

  6. Haha Gwen! That's why I loved the Palmer-Plesch book Real Fit for Real People - they have a section showing how you'll change with age, and I realized it's inevitable, it's not my fault!

  7. I just finished my intro pattern drafting class where we finished a skirt sloper (still need to blog about it) and I learned that I have the most odd shaped body. My hips are uneven - not enough for the average person to notice, but enough so that it really mattered in my pattern draft - so it could be that you have the same thing going on. Just a thought. I also think Beangirl has a point about bringing up the hem which will help the side seam to fall in line a bit more. Otherwise, I think the skirt is looking good!