Monday, August 18, 2014

Burdastyle 08/2010-108 slim pants

Pants are one of those things, you know. You need them in your wardrobe, but fitting them; well, it just ain't always fun!
I made these as a wearable muslin of sorts. I really am happy with the Jalie jeans pattern, but it is for stretch denim, and I have a ton of bottomweight fabrics without stretch that I would like to turn into pants. This particular piece is a heavy-ish non-stretch denim that has been in the stash for quite a while.
So I went hunting in the pattern files and pulled out this Burda (08/2010-108) It is extremely basic, with front and back darts, side seam pockets and back pocket flaps - no actual pockets back there. There is a shaped waistband and front fly zipper.
This extremely flattering shot gives you a glimpse of the higher rise, and waistband. You can see the itty bitty front darts. I usually despise front darts, but they work in these pants. I did make the waistband a smidge wider by adding 5/8 seam allowances and then only sewing 3/8. This gave me an extra half inch or so, which was enough to justify an extra snap. I like the look of doubled snaps, and they feel very secure.
As far as fit goes, I actually made very few changes. Other than widening the waistband, I scooped out and raised the rear crotch hook slightly. I compared it to my Vogue 1059, which I've made 3 times with good results. I did eliminate the side seam pockets. These pants have very little ease at the hip, so the pockets gaped horribly.
Sadly, that means that the pants have no pockets, which means they are unlikely to become a favorite pair. I thought about adding rear welt pockets, but since I wasn't sure I was going to be happy with them, I didn't want to waste the effort.
And when it really comes down to it, I'm still not sure how I feel about these. They're comfortable, fit well and are serviceable, but I don't love them. The shape of the leg feels a little dumpy to me, and I can't decide why.
I think I'm going to have to wear them a few times and decide if I'm going to use this pattern again. I do like how clean the lines are. Maybe I just need to alter the fit of the leg?


  1. The leg is a little loose at the top, in the back, which might be why you don't love them. The lines are nice, but if you don't solve the fit issue which is bugging you, then they will never be a favored pair of pants. If you can make the leg fit so you're happy, they'll be great!

  2. I was thinking that those jeans looked great. Work it, work it. But you'd know better being the one who's wearing them.

  3. I think they look really good. I would add some jeans type pockets on the back just for interest, if you don't want to bother with welts. Probably a bit loose in the back leg but they look really comfortable and I think sometimes if you are just at home or relaxing, loose comfy jeans are just the thing. A good base.

  4. I think these are a very wearable first attempt at a new pants pattern. The fit looks spot on. Yep I think some back pockets would be the go and I think I'm with you on the leg shape, maybe widen the bottom slightly, which would elongate the leg more. But nice pants :-)

  5. I am quite amazed as these look really good. But we are never happy are we. There is a Kenneth King article on how to get rid of those drag lines in a Threads article somewhere...