tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post6085076725083010652..comments2024-03-02T05:18:52.217-05:00Comments on Kadiddlehopper: The Big 4 Experiment: ResultsKID, MDhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16317731987862366557noreply@blogger.comBlogger48125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-76028530379472044862013-10-31T23:32:00.771-04:002013-10-31T23:32:00.771-04:00You are amazing! It's so cool how you actually...You are amazing! It's so cool how you actually made the pattern up to illustrate. I personally gave up on patterns many years ago. I make patterns from the clothes I buy that I love. The shape and construction methods are so far superior. And the cost of patterns is ridiculous. I've learned so much about clothing construction from taking clothes apart, too. As far as not everyone owning sergers, well, there are certainly some better non-serger methods than the double fold hem at this point in time, too! Good job, this is a great article.Lisanoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-66477967457411143302013-06-18T09:20:43.263-04:002013-06-18T09:20:43.263-04:00Hi!! You and I are somewhat on the same wave leng...Hi!! You and I are somewhat on the same wave length here. I find your "Big 4" test very interesting. You proved the importance of not relying on pattern envelope measurements, but to measure the pattern yourself. This is what I'm teaching on my blog in my online pattern fitting series. I also like that you pointed out that a mishap like this is how many new sewists/sewers fail right in the beginning. Great Job!!Roxanne Stitcheshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16690915999101804144noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-35232724075753996762013-06-14T09:12:15.350-04:002013-06-14T09:12:15.350-04:00You got a great hem using your coverstitch machine...You got a great hem using your coverstitch machine. How many people would fork out the $$$ for such a machine simply to make knit garments? I think the sewing instructions for knits take into account that the beginning sewer doesn't own a serger or a coverstitch machine but a simple straight-forward standard sewing machine, and we all know - after years of practice and trial and error - that sewing knits on a regular sewing machine requires a few tricks. Can you imagine the instructions reading: serger and coverstich machine required to get a RTW look on your me-made T? And the sizing issue is trial and error. Even the same pattern, altered to fit perfectly, will require more alteration if a different quality of jersey is used. How is a pattern company supposed to accommodate that?Tia Diahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10622901192302670927noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-82361638372190796482013-06-13T20:11:27.119-04:002013-06-13T20:11:27.119-04:00For me the biggest issue with fit on Big 4 pattern...For me the biggest issue with fit on Big 4 patterns is the inconsistent ease (as someone mentioned up thread.) It shifts from pattern to pattern and almost never lines up with the ease that type of garment should have or even the ease that's pictured on the front of the envelope. I once sewed a straight skirt without a waistband with a straight out of the envelope "ease" of 3 1/2". that's insane. If I had cut the size suggested for my measurements the skirt would have fit like a pair of teenage boy's sloppy jeans. The crazy ease measurements make it very difficult to adjust the pattern in the first place. I've been sewing for over 25 years and trying to figure out what size to cut where still feels like calculus.<br /><br />It's interesting to see the techniques you use. I'd be interested to see a tutorial on the neckline technique. Amy B.https://www.blogger.com/profile/18077222500792448126noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-26164729392765379882013-06-12T10:37:11.366-04:002013-06-12T10:37:11.366-04:00It is also our responsibility to measure ourselves...It is also our responsibility to measure ourselves and measure the paper pattern...what are size numbers for? Just a guide until to actually measure each piece sideways and lengthwise and write it down, add it up to see what is the real circumference and length are and will be after being sewn and stretched.mrsmolehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16329515914613595719noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-24773459756183188272013-06-11T13:34:29.795-04:002013-06-11T13:34:29.795-04:00Taking one for the team, indeed!
The natural foll...Taking one for the team, indeed!<br /><br />The natural follow-up would be to gather a group of variously sized 38" bust women and have them try on the two shirts and note which one they prefer. There's got to be SOMEone out there who matches the McCall's size 16 as drafted, but would there be more who prefer that or more who prefer your altered version? Maybe something to try at the next sewists' gathering.<br /><br />Completely off-topic, but in the photo where you're holding up the excess of shoulder fabric in the unaltered shirt, I think the raised collar effect flatters you. Do you have collars which stand up like that in your wardrobe?Quincunxnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-10914730421020456512013-06-08T18:02:54.541-04:002013-06-08T18:02:54.541-04:00I agree, I don't have a serger either. Also, w...I agree, I don't have a serger either. Also, what beginner would continue if they were told they need to buy one just to try out sewing for the first time?lsaspaceyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17058968076601943527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-36644387411551775652013-06-08T17:56:35.124-04:002013-06-08T17:56:35.124-04:00Some patterns, but only some, do have dual instruc...Some patterns, but only some, do have dual instructions as I have many New Look patterns that have conventional and serger instructions. Also New Look is the one line in the big four (Div. of Simplicity) that I think has the most knit patterns. That's why I like them so much.lsaspaceyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17058968076601943527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-87803840826335182572013-06-08T17:43:54.739-04:002013-06-08T17:43:54.739-04:00Sorry, but on one point I have to disagree. The th...Sorry, but on one point I have to disagree. The thing is they DO say to go by the high bust measurement, at least Vogue, McCall's and Butterick do. If you have more than an A-B cup that is what they advise. It's just that no one sees that info. It is still in the actual patternbook, on their website, and in the magazine. However, one needs to look at the <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/how-to-choose-your-correct-size-pages-339.php" rel="nofollow">Size Chart</a> info in the book or on the website to see it. <br /><br />I'm not saying that there aren't problems with their fit or instuctions just that this particular information IS there and should be used to choose your patterns. It's not like they are holding back this info. The only thing they can reasonably hope everyone will read is the packaged instructions (though I've read on many blogs that even beginners don't read all of them) but putting that information <i>there</i> is too late as you've already purchased the pattern in a particular size, right? What else are they to do but put the information out there in various places and call it <b><a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/how-to-choose-your-correct-size-pages-339.php" rel="nofollow">How to Choose Your Correct Size</a></b>?lsaspaceyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17058968076601943527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-25236069429099658962013-06-08T16:22:04.043-04:002013-06-08T16:22:04.043-04:00Interesting post!!! I have not sewn from many pat...Interesting post!!! I have not sewn from many patterns at all yet, many of the things I've sewn have been from books. I'm looking forward to getting into more of the independent patternmakers as well. The one Vogue pattern I tried, failed miserably. Butterick and Simplicity seem to be okay, with the few I've tried. <br /><br />The top in your post also has such a low gaping neckline, so even though you chose your size, it would seem that you have to have a VERY long waist for the neckline to fit. ?? Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-9000895710655491982013-06-08T07:54:19.745-04:002013-06-08T07:54:19.745-04:00Thanks for taking one for the team- your work is d...Thanks for taking one for the team- your work is definitely appreciated. I still think a 'what not to sew' program should be in the works! prttynpnkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16513331416653286924noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-38956843019755118402013-06-08T06:31:11.043-04:002013-06-08T06:31:11.043-04:00Thanks for the pointers.
I have probably been s...Thanks for the pointers. <br /><br />I have probably been sewing since your grandmother was a child. There are so many patterns in my stash that I hadn't bought any new ones for several years, just modified what I already have. Last year, however, I decided to add about 10 new patterns to my collection and discovered to my dismay that the sizing had changed dramatically. <br /><br />At first I thought it was me... then I saw a few other posts like yours. Not sure how many more patterns I'll be buying in the foreseeable future. Hopefully, the Big 4 will wake up and smell the coffee. Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03234366085172090247noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-55678332631891848452013-06-07T21:03:53.796-04:002013-06-07T21:03:53.796-04:00Great experiment, I have always had to alter sewin...Great experiment, I have always had to alter sewing patterns no matter what company. I have had issues with other sewing products - ie a defective zipper, so I sent it back to the company and received a replacement and a very nice letter thanking me for telling me about the problem and they were reviewing their manufacturing to find where it went wrong.<br /><br />Has anyone contacted the pattern companies with your comments? They aren't going to know how sewists feel if don't hear from you.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-6439140091318081582013-06-07T15:51:43.737-04:002013-06-07T15:51:43.737-04:00What other consumer product would be sold with ins...What other consumer product would be sold with instructions that are WRONG and, when followed correctly, would produce an end product that doesn't fulfill it's stated function?<br /><br />And why do sewists blame themselves instead of the people who sell the crap?<br /><br />I'm in the camp that says that their block isn't as bad as their instructions.<br /><br />In the last generation, average cup sizes have gone from a B to a C and the waist to hip ratio has become closer to one. The independents tend to cater to the younger demographic with that style of body. I am an A cup with a small waist so altering a Big 4 is easier than for many independent patterns. YMMV. I just wish that the patterns would specify for whom they are making the pattern and have a consistent fit.badmomgoodmomhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11569728075698885020noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-36641513816881855432013-06-07T09:18:21.050-04:002013-06-07T09:18:21.050-04:00I struggle with fit, and it is one of the things t...I struggle with fit, and it is one of the things that makes me put off starting a new project. I haven't got my alterations figured out, and need to develop some TNT patterns.<br />I do think they could improve & modernize the instructions, but I don't have a serger, and don't want to see them advising techniques I can't use. Maybe as optional techniques.Laura SJhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18146599519173951450noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-64302998389905998682013-06-07T08:57:05.493-04:002013-06-07T08:57:05.493-04:00I am so impressed that you took the time to do thi...I am so impressed that you took the time to do this. It really makes the point. I think your conclusions are spot on. We all need to learn to make our own fitting adjustments. The pattern companies might assist a bit by directing us to our upper bust measurement rather than our full bust, but other than that, what they can do to please all people is pretty limited.<br /><br />You are right, the instructions for knits are diabolical. They do need a re-vamp.Karinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06551387452771116176noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-13988027499153314902013-06-07T08:54:24.487-04:002013-06-07T08:54:24.487-04:00Agree.
Agree.<br />Karinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06551387452771116176noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-46557001008140248202013-06-07T06:43:25.704-04:002013-06-07T06:43:25.704-04:00I also agree with Cidell. No pattern company will ...I also agree with Cidell. No pattern company will fit a majority of sewists. We are all just too individual and it is our responsibility to learn to fit our own unique bodies. I think all this sloper bashing is not addressing our own unique differences. Amen, Cidell. Bunnyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/03672695141031447916noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-11210894487040483852013-06-07T00:49:09.642-04:002013-06-07T00:49:09.642-04:00Agreed! Pattern instructions are outdated. As fo...Agreed! Pattern instructions are outdated. As for the fit, the pattern companies are terribly inconsistent. I flat pattern measure every pattern to determine the amount of ease they have built in before deciding what alterations to do.<br /><br />Christiana<br />sewamusing.blogspot.comChristianahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11171676961581669900noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-57377465768815707632013-06-06T13:43:35.810-04:002013-06-06T13:43:35.810-04:00Double fold straight stitch hem? Ouch. Frankly, th...Double fold straight stitch hem? Ouch. Frankly, that's juvenile sewing. I never sew big 4, with the exception of a few vintage or a Lisette pattern. I've picked up some (ok, a lot) newly published retro styles I'd like to do, though. Interestingly, I sewed a popular indie pattern recently and noticed that the shoulders were nested as if bust size corresponded to shoulder width. I had to majorly reconstruct the shoulders since I used to sewing with better-drafted patterns (Otto, Burda, Jalie).Joyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17756048999067152284noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-69083097051691097542013-06-06T10:29:43.645-04:002013-06-06T10:29:43.645-04:00i think i would have found it useful if you had se...i think i would have found it useful if you had sewn up the size your high bust would have given you (maybe with an FBA if needed). as a pretty new sewist i have no idea how/ when i'll get to the level of knowing enough about the fit of big 4 patterns to tailor each bit to my size, and no newbie sewist knows that stuff. of course you'll get a better fit if you tailor it exactly to your size, but surely the issue isn't that all patterns don't fit everyone straight out of the envelope, but the ridiculous amount of ease (and horrible instructions!). they should take a leaf out of Steph @ 3 hours past's approach to making patterns that are clear and easy to fit!<br /><br />anyway, great post. thanks! (I tried to write this yesterday but it kept disappearing - stupid computer!)Sew little timehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04027164681383524032noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-19153750675940394662013-06-05T19:09:01.958-04:002013-06-05T19:09:01.958-04:00I always start on the basis of being small across ...I always start on the basis of being small across the shoulders and short in the torso, and needing an FBA (done like yours on knits, grading up to the size 16 in the bust and back down from there). Years ago, when I used to buy my clothes, I always had to take in tops between the bust and waist, so when I started to sew again for real, I knew what I needed to do with patterns. I think at that time they had just started making patterns with multiple size lines, and they actually said something about being able to grade up and down depending upon the size you needed at any particular body part. I think it would be really frustrating to be a beginning sewist, and come out with a final product like your "follow the directions" sample.<br /><br />And because knits are so tricky, I always use the serger for everything possible. The puckering is always upsetting.Marjiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14950085029835332900noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-73364487301242363072013-06-05T16:48:35.991-04:002013-06-05T16:48:35.991-04:00Wow. That's a lot of shoulder room. The patter...Wow. That's a lot of shoulder room. The pattern piece differences are interesting, too.<br /><br />One question about the clear elastic . . . does it go all the way around the neckline? Bethhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14380532857252595734noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-18194484174805961862013-06-05T11:14:56.769-04:002013-06-05T11:14:56.769-04:00what a great post and I am so glad you did the com...what a great post and I am so glad you did the comparison sewing. I sew almost exclusively with the Big 4 and don't want them to change the sizing sloper since I know how to alter them. I think so many new sewists are not learning how to fit. Granted sewing is complicated there is both fit and technique to master with so many variables such as fabric, style of garment etc. However I really think people should take some time to learn fitting, it makes such a difference. I have made a few independent patterns and don't they they have any great improvement or difference in sizing or fit, in fact maybe more issues as each company uses their own sizing starting point. <br />I agree with comments above, the instructions for knits are mostly terrible.Beth (SunnyGal Studio)https://www.blogger.com/profile/08891740887743925587noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-296724601340557264.post-15319702811931023372013-06-05T07:59:40.409-04:002013-06-05T07:59:40.409-04:00I've been steadily drifting more towards the i...I've been steadily drifting more towards the independent patterns myself over the last several years--frankly, it's more being bored with a lot of what the Big 4 have to offer style-wise. There are lines I like in those ranges (the Simplicity Project Runway patterns come to mind, for instance), but those end up being mostly dresses and I am admittedly more of a separates-wearer in my everyday life. With tops and dresses, I've learned that I can generally start with a size 14, take the waist in some, and use that as a jumping-off point to get a fairly decent fit. <br /><br />The instructions are certainly an issue, especially when it comes to knit patterns. But one thing to keep in mind is that while there are a wider range of machines available to the home sewist, not all sewists (especially people just learning) have those machines available to him or her personally. Instructions meant for a coverstitch machine would take some reconfiguring for me, because I don't have those (I usually just try to get the look as closely as I can with serging the edge and then double-stitching the hem on my regular machine.) A beginner probably wouldn't have serger access, either. So what they probably need to do is give two sets of instructions--one for sewing machine only and one for people who have sergers as well. But I doubt they'd be willing to do that. <br /><br />Truthfully, I don't look at the instructions that much anymore, either, at least with those. Reconfiguring their instructions are a piece of cake compared to what's in the Burda magazine instructions!Beckyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09913795373618902575noreply@blogger.com