Monday, November 29, 2010

Vogue 1099 - SISC #2

SISC item #2 is sewn!  I really appreciate all of the input regarding the sleeves of the jacket.  Thanks to everyone!!
Here is the finished product.  I really like the way that it came out!  It isn't like anything else in my wardrobe, which is fun.  The pattern is Vogue 1099, a Badgley Mischka design.  It is a very loose fitting jacket, with a standing collar, shaping in front with pleats and gathered short sleeves.  The pattern includes a slightly gathered undercollar, which I did not make.  I basted it in, and it just didn't make me happy.  Otherwise I followed the pattern.  The lining pattern is included, but does not include the pleats, rather forms a sort of princess seam with the facing piece.  It looks nice, but I don't think it has quite as much ease as the jacket front.  As is was, I actually sewed a size 10 without alteration.  There is so much ease that an FBA wasn't necessary.  The fit is fine in front, but over a more bulky top, the jacket is a bit snug in the back and sleeves.  Obviously designed to be a spring jacket!
The fabrics are both from Hancock's.  The shell is a cotton pique and the lining is polyester crepe.  Both are soft and have a nice drape.  The pique has enough body that I didn't interface the body of the jacket at all, just the facings.  I wanted a soft, more casual look.
So, who's wondering what I did with the sleeve?  In the end, I did the lining per Vogue's instructions - gathering stitches which I tied off.  Both Audrey and Jane M have made this jacket and found the sleeves to have sufficient ease in this area that reinforcement wasn't required.  It looks good that way, but it was a serious pain, so for the shell, I used clear elastic to gather/stabilize.
I generally sew on clear elastic with a zigzag, but I wanted to preserve the look of the lines of straight stitching,  so I used a regular straight stitch.  It was a little fussier to sew on, but I think it looks good.  I initially thought of shirring/smocking with elastic thread in the bobbin, but I wanted to be able to better control the finished length and that isn't really possible.  Then Trena reminded me that shirring elastic seems to have a pretty short lifespan, and I want this jacket to last!
I really thought that this would be a good jacket for my belly, and while it does fit over the belly, I think that it makes me look rather more triangular than I actually am.  Fortunately, I only have a few more weeks before we can see how it looks without the belly!!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

What would you do? - Vogue 1099

I still have one more Christmas project to sew up, but while I await supplies, I'm taking a little selfish sewing break and working on my SISC jacket, Vogue 1099.
This morning I got the lining/facing unit mostly constructed.  I always do the lining first so that I can work out weirdness and finalize fit on the part that doesn't show.  This time the weirdness was with the sleeve.
Here is the lining sleeve, constructed per the Vogue instructions.
Here is what Vogue wants me to do - sew the gathering stitches, gather to match, and then tie off the stitches. No stay or any other way of stabilizing the gathers.
And it should end up looking like this, which allowing for the difference between lining and shell, I think it mostly does.  My concern is that it isn't very stable.  Those stitches can slide all over the place, and what a mess if a thread breaks!  Also, I'm not so confident in my square knot tying ability, and ripping open the lining when the knot unties or the stitches pop doesn't appeal to me.  So, I've been contemplating my options.  My first thought was to stitch on a twill tape stay once I have the gathers where I want them.  That would stabilize them nicely and I think, preserve the appearance of just rows of stitching.  I also contemplated gathering with shirring or clear elastic.  What do you think?

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Ottobre 03/2004-9

I'm taking a little break from the holiday sewing to fill some wardrobe holes for Myra.  My poor little princess is ill prepared for the chilly weather - and has no long sleeve tees.  So I pulled out a favorite from last year - Ottobre 03/2004-9, the wrap front tee.
I made her two versions of this tee last winter, and they were perfect!
This time I added a little stretch lace to the neckline band.  I love that there are so many opportunities to embellish this otherwise simple tee.
The fabric is a bamboo jersey that my mother used to make this top, and then sent me the rest.  I still have quite a bit left, so Myra will likely get a springtime dress once the weather warms up again.
It's a nice color on her!  The neckline is a bit more snug than she needs - I think I'll just whack of the seam allowances on the neckline and band for the next time I make it.  No worries getting it over her giant head, thanks to the wrap.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Baby shower!

I've been busy with my holiday sewing, but I got to take a break to make this set for an upcoming first girl!  Her shower was yesterday, so I can share what I made for her with you now.
The pants are my usual Simplicity 3765, with cuffs added for warmth and grow room.  The fabric is the same fleece that I used to make Myra's pink pants.  I appliqued a purchased long sleeved onesie with a simple fleece flower, and knitted some baby mitts out of a soft mohair yarn, then trimmed them with ribbon woven through eyelets knitted into the cuffs.  I hope it keeps this little princess warm and cozy!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Texas Renaissance Festival!

Yesterday we we able to go to the Texas Renaissance Festival.  We try to go every year, and it is definitely one of the things we will miss about living in Texas.  This is the first year that I have made all of our costumes.
I've posted about the costumes individually , but I'll link them here for the Google searchers.  I'm wearing McCalls 6141, altered for maternity.  It's still is a great fit at 33 weeks!
Logan is sporting McCalls 5500 on top and Burda 9671 on the bottom.  The applique is a dragon, roughly based on an online coloring page.  He got tons of compliments on his cool dragon!  The pants get worn constantly.  They fit him well and he likes them.  The tunic is a little big, but he's comfortable in it.
Mitch is wearing a heavily altered McCalls 4530 on top, and Simplicity 4378 on bottom.  The pants are a TNT for him.  He loves his tunic, and I am so happy to have finally managed a Ren Fest outfit for him that is comfortable and looks good.
My little princess's gown is based on Butterick 4910.  She loves it, and passers-by universally found her adorable.

We had a great time at the Faire! We watched belly dancers, jousters and sword fights, enjoyed all of the interesting costumes, and ate way too much faire food.  But the coolest part?
The elephant ride!!

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Simplicity 2526

I'm about to embark on a string of Holiday crafting, which I won't be able to show you until after the fact.  So, it may be a little quiet around here until I get finished.  First though, Myra needed some snuggly pants, as it has actually been sort of chilly.
I made them out of a minky-like fleece that I found at Walmart.  Sometimes I get really lucky there.
The pattern is Simplicity 2526, which I used last year for some corduroy pants for her.  Maybe I'll get around to that adorable coat and hat next year.  It is a nice basic pant pattern that has a cute shape and fits her well.
It's a little boring, so I added some ribbon trim to the side seam.
Here is the rearview.  They are a little long, but I'm leaving them that way.  She's not tripping on them, and you never know when a growth spurt will hit.  I'd like these to last her all winter!
She's happy with them, but then they are a lurid Barbie pink.  What's not to love?  After she snuggled with them all day, I have to say it looks like these are a win!

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Butterick 4910 & Simplicity 2561

Well, back to the costumes.  But this is the last one - really!  Myra's Red Riding Hood dress is sweet, but without the hood (which she won't wear), really isn't very much like a costume, and really isn't very Renaissance-y, so I decided to make her a princess dress for the Ren Faire.
She chose pink, naturally.  I saw it as an excuse to use up this wretched poly taffeta that she made me buy.  It was also a nice way to finish off the trim that I used on my dress.  Yay for stash busting!
The dress is Butterick 4910, and the belt (?) is from Simplicity 2561.  The Simplicity pattern got a lot of use last Halloween when I dressed a pirate band.  It's a fun costume pattern with lots of different options.  I suspect that I will use it again.  Butterick 4910 has been in the stash for a while.  It is a simple peasant style top and dress as well as shorts and pants.  Butterick claims that it is not to be used for sleepwear, although the line drawing on the pattern shows a bunch of cute girls with their blankies all ready for bed...  Anyway, it has very simple lines and was a quick sew.
I borrowed the sleeve treatment from Joy's cute medieval dress.  It is just elastic shirring on the upper arms.
For the lace up belt/corset thingie I used some darker rose satin from the stash and the waistband pattern piece for one of the pirate skirts.  It's lined with the pink taffeta of the main dress, which I interfaced with heavy craft interfacing to give it structure.  Sort of a training corset, if you will.  I don't think a 2 year old needs boning...  I did attach it to the dress with a line of stitching at center back.  Myra doesn't have much waist definition at this point, and I didn't want it to slide around.
I think the sleeves might be a little long.  I can't decide if I want to hem them up a little, or just let them be long.  She'll drag them through everything she eats either way.
At least now we are all ready for the Ren Faire!  And just in time - we go next weekend!!!  More pictures then...

Friday, November 5, 2010

Ottobre 03/2010-23 "Beethoven" shirt

Since Logan has been busily outgrowing his dress shirts, it was time for a new one.  I let him choose the fabric, so naturally it features soccer balls.
Not exactly traditional dress shirt material, but at least he'll wear it.  I love the way that it fits.  I know you can't really tell from this picture, but it has a very slim, modern fit, both in the body and sleeves.
The pattern is from the 03/2010 issue of Ottobre.  Ottobre calls it the "Beethoven" shirt and it comes in a short and long sleeved version.  This is the second long sleeved shirt I have made with an Ottobre pattern, and they have both had features that I like.  Here is last year's, from the 04/2004 issue.  It had a two piece collar and traditional menswear sleeve placket, as well as a cool yoke with curved shoulder seams.
Here you can see some of the features that I like about this design.  The yoke is lined (obviously that is an easy fix, but still...).  I like the shape of the pocket on this one as well.  One thing I didn't like (that I thought I would!) was the collar.  It is a one piece collar, but shaped like a collar with stand.  I thought it would be easier than a traditional collar with stand, but it wasn't really, and it doesn't have the structure that the separate stand gives it.
The sleeve placket is bound, which is generally a detail I associate with women's blouses.  While I prefer a traditional topstitched menswear sleeve placket generally, it would get totally lost in this busy print, so I think this was fine for this shirt.  I also like the double buttoned cuff.

Overall, the two different styles each had elements that I really liked, so for Logan's next shirt, I'm just going to pick and choose the features I want and frankenpattern.
Mom, quit takin' pictures of me.  I'm playing with my trains!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Halloween Costumes!

I thought y'all might like to see the whole array of Halloween costumes, all on us!
At our church Halloween party, one of the couples was taking family pictures!  Good thing, since Myra took her hood off about 45 seconds after the picture was taken and has refused to wear it since.  You can't really see Mitch and I, but I think it's a pretty good picture of the kids!  Aren't they cute?!

Individual posts for the costumes are here:
Myra - Red Riding Hood
Dress and Pinafore
Logan - Tunic and tee
Mitch - Tunic and pants
Katie - Dress

Monday, November 1, 2010

Monthly Roundup - October '10

This month has been a busy one, between Halloween prep and getting ready for the Wee Professor.  I've spent a lot of time knitting, but not as much time in my sewing room as I'd like.

I have sewn:

1) a drawstring bag for my straight knitting needles
2) McCalls 6141costume/dress for me
3) McCalls 4530 costume/tunic for Mitch
4) Simplicity 4378, as a costume pant as well as a regular scrub top and pant for Mitch
5) Another Kitschy Coo Reversible Hoodie, this time for Logan
6) Simplicity 3765 pant in corduroy and fleece for the Wee Professor
7) burdastyle 09/2010-121 turtleneck for me
8) a self-drafted column skirt for me
9) McCalls 3665 pants for the Wee Professor
10) Ottobre 06/2009-3 tee for the Wee Professor

All totaling 12 items.  I didn't count the onesies I appliqued, since they were storebought.  Not too bad overall though.  Several of these were quick and dirty sort of projects, but the costumes were a bit more of a challenge.  It did feel good to be done with Halloween before I had to stress out about it.

I have done a lot of knitting this month although I've not posted about everything.  I've knit:

1) Coronet hat for Myra
2) Edelweiss neckwarmer for me
3) Ribbed Watchman hats for Mitch and Logan
4) Child's Play crown for Myra
5) Little Boy Blue Baby hat for the Wee Professor
6) Some Baby Mitts for the Wee Professor
7) Children's Placket Neck Pullover sweater for the Wee Professor

That is a total of 8 items, most of which were small and quick!  I've a few Christmas items to knit next, then a hat and mitts to match the Placket Neck Pullover.  I also have plans for a bolero for me and a sweater for Mitch, which will probably take a while.

Sewing-wise, I can't really say I tackled anything exceptionally challenging.  I admit that I am starting to feel the time crunch, as the Wee Professor is due in just 2 months and I want to at least get as much winter sewing done as I can before he comes.  Having a newborn around is sure to cut into my crafting time!!  Next month will probably feature a whole lot of necessary sewing and a bit less of the purely for fun stuff.  Since my first two babies were both born in summer time, I need to flesh out a winter wardrobe for the Wee Professor.  There may be quite a few baby items this coming month...  I think I'm pretty much done sewing pure maternity for myself, but I may make a few pieces that will transition.  We are going to the Renaissance Festival in a few weeks and Myra doesn't really have a dress, so I may modify Butterick 4910 to make her a simple peasant dress.  I love the way that Joy shirred the sleeves on this dress and may just copy that!  At the moment, I am working on a dress shirt for Logan.  The pattern is Ottobre 03/2010-23 and the fabric is a lighter weight quilting cotton that he chose.

I am still working on my Self-Imposed Sewing!  My Vogue 1099 jacket has been traced, fit and cut out and interfaced.  I need to get some thread and then I'll start sewing.  I won't choose another SISC project just yet, as I haven't finished this one.  I'm trying to keep this fun, and feeling like I have a deadline isn't.  I'm just going with the flow!