Tuesday, November 23, 2010

What would you do? - Vogue 1099

I still have one more Christmas project to sew up, but while I await supplies, I'm taking a little selfish sewing break and working on my SISC jacket, Vogue 1099.
This morning I got the lining/facing unit mostly constructed.  I always do the lining first so that I can work out weirdness and finalize fit on the part that doesn't show.  This time the weirdness was with the sleeve.
Here is the lining sleeve, constructed per the Vogue instructions.
Here is what Vogue wants me to do - sew the gathering stitches, gather to match, and then tie off the stitches. No stay or any other way of stabilizing the gathers.
And it should end up looking like this, which allowing for the difference between lining and shell, I think it mostly does.  My concern is that it isn't very stable.  Those stitches can slide all over the place, and what a mess if a thread breaks!  Also, I'm not so confident in my square knot tying ability, and ripping open the lining when the knot unties or the stitches pop doesn't appeal to me.  So, I've been contemplating my options.  My first thought was to stitch on a twill tape stay once I have the gathers where I want them.  That would stabilize them nicely and I think, preserve the appearance of just rows of stitching.  I also contemplated gathering with shirring or clear elastic.  What do you think?

15 comments:

  1. My first thought was shirring or elastic as well. I totally agree with you that this method isn't very stable over the long term. Pretty lining fabric.

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  2. Wow! I love your fabric!!

    Fantastic! I can't wait for the final result.

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  3. This jacket is going to be super-gorgeous!!!

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  4. I made this jacket last summer and tied off the gathering threads with knots (What a pain) in both the lining and garment fabric. I have had no problem with the threads coming undone. The sleeves are rather large and there is no tightness or pressure in the area of the gathers. And my gathers were much tighter than yours. I don't have the pattern in front of me so I can't remember if it specifies the width of the gathered area. One other blogger that made this jacket smocked the sleeve in this area rather than gathering . It looked very nice.

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  5. I would say twill tape over elastic shirring--the elastic thread I used to shir a dress 3 years ago (granted, a fairly long time) has lost almost all its shape and elasticity. I think it has about an 18 month life span.

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  6. I'd also stabilize - either with twill tape or simple straight stitches over the gathers, which is what the model photo appears to show. But only in the FF - I wouldn't bother stabilizing the gathers in the lining, the upper part of the sleeve will keep that in place anyhow.

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  7. I would probably have gone for the elastic, but I think stabilizing is a good idea. The knots thing would make me nervous too.

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  8. I can't help you... never made either, but thanks for the tip about the lining - making it first!
    It looks pretty though, I'm sure it'll come out just great!

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  9. What an interesting looking jacket. And I love the bright fabric (nice touch for the lining. You could always iron on a bit of interfacing to the back side if you were concerned, but it may make it a bit stiff? If it did come undone down the track, you might be able to re-gather it with the two layers to go, so i'd probably risk it. Good luck!

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  10. I'd go for twill tape too. Pattern instructions with knots flip me out a little too even though I learned to tie knots alongside my Eagle scout brother.

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  11. I vote clear elastic - I'm loving it in my Jalie shirt. And that's about the only thing I can remember from my OB rotation - how to tie a knot!

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  12. Like Audrey, I made this jacket last fall, for the PR jacket contest. It was a PITA to tie off all the gathering in the sleeve and lining but it's definitely secure enough for this style. If you feel strongly about stabilizing it , then I'd use silk organza selvedge, something nice and lightweight to keep it in place. Have fun. I get lots of compliments when I war mine, even though I don't think it's the most flattering look on me. The collar is fabulous, IMO.

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  13. I'm of no help in terms of the gathering dilemma. I'm here to ask about SISC? It's not listed on your sidebar of abbreviations. Maybe when I read your oder posts it'll become clear? I'm playing catchup still.

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  14. BIJ - SISC = Self-Imposed Sewing club. I added it to the sidebar. Thanks for catching me!!

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